MARTINIQUE

Martinique, the island of flowers, says the tourist info booklet. But I see no more flowers than on any other island. However, the flowers are lovely and vibrant.
Le Marin where we made landfall is a boating place. Thousands of boats are anchored, moored or layed-up. Clearing into and out of Martinique is easy and cheap. Internet is only available with wi-fi which is mostly only available in restaurants where one is expected to buy something. Many times internet is not fast.  Australian, NewZealand and South African propane bottles can not be re-filled here. Water is available at the marina. We only took jerrycans and that was free. Lovely hot weather. We had no rain whilst the land was frequently not visable with downpour. Martinique is very hilly, lots of cars, narrow streets, parking on sidewalk.

We sailed to Forte-France, the capital, and anchored in Anse Mitan at Pointe du Bout, not knowing there is a casino and lots of entertainment long into the nights. The ferry to Forte-France runs every hour and was 7 euro return. Forte-France has an interesting mix of architecture and buildings and are overloaded with tourists. Everyday comes and goes one or more cruiseship(s). Prices match the tourists.  Lots of airplane traffic low over the bay.

Our next stop was St.Pierre. Another anchoring shocker. It is very deep and the shallower part very limited. Therefore one drop the anchor almost on the beach, still in 15m of water, and need lots of scope. But St.Pierre is a tourist attraction and boats-a-plenty come and go everyday - anchoring on top of each other.  We finally found a place far away from the others, on the other side of the bay where local fishing activity was visable. That brought us into the 'local'. And local also means 'Mount Pelee'. The vulcano that wiped the old St.Pierre and its 30,000 inhabitants from the earth. As we walk the streets, one is confronted with ruins of a sad story, yet life pulses through the new city. Our week in St.Pierre was good.

Travels

We are travelling again in beautiful South Africa. When one experience the beauty, the bad and sad stuff seem so far away. 
Picture overview of Franshoek valley in the Cape Province.

Back HOME

Hello to everybody. I presume it's time to let you know we are still alive, well and at home. And that is great as always. The mechanical department on board is in overdrive with the maintenance and new projects on Mylady. And the supporting crew is on red alert standby. The steamlight on the mast was UV-ed to dust over thirty years. Eelco replaced it for less than a fraction of a new. Of course we are chuffed and happy about it. It is winter in southern Africa. And along the coast - cold, misty and wet. Talk to you later !

PIRACY AND CORRUPTION

Maffia - corruption - piracy - all bad words and unfortunately all applicable to Nigeria. If they're willing to pay the price, cargo vessels can be escorted fore and aft by gunboats. Piracy is an age-old trade and gunning them down, part of daily life it seems. Normal protection is just one highspeed vessel to accompany the convoy of cargo vessels in and out of the seaport Onne, which is just south of  Port Harcourt in Nigeria. There is a certain area in the delta where no police or navy control is done. Therefore the area is used for pirate-trade.  Eelco's ship left Nigerian waters again under surveilance. It is though on the high seas out of the high risk area (and protection), that the pirates are active.  Pirates are one thing, but it's the corruption applied in maffia manner by the officials on all levels which leaves the bitter taste. 

2016 update

2016 has been an interesting year. No, we didn't sail even one mile...... sad but true. Mylady arrived December 2015 in South Africa. We rested in Knysna over Christmas and then sped around the Cape of Good Hope to Port Owen on the southwest coast of South Africa. Here in the marina which is quite a distance upriver on the great Berg River, Mylady is safe from any heavy seas or swell. Yet close enough to sea, to freeze (not truly - just very cold) when the wind turns and comes onshore across the cold Benguala of the Atlantic.

Therefore we're not complaining. We have cold, cool, warm, hot, mist weather, all in the span of one week, and then over again.  Sea is half hour walk from the boat. We go there often.

            We have been hard at work - travelling. Eelco earned some freedom chips for us around western Europe. Mi-sA-le joined him for a few weeks. We alse spent time with mom in Netherland and explored some of Holland. Mi-sA-le then went to visit her son in Texas USA and also her son in Cape Town. The time back on Mylady we enjoyed and happily groomed the boat, ticking-off the jobs to-do list which only grows.

             We went on a flower safari for a month in Namaqua land. It was beautiful, stormy, wet, cold, interesting. We made a roadtrip through the southwest part of Namibia. It took us two months. The land and desert were as always, soul-charge beautiful and amazing. When out on the water I colour in my mind the blue around me with browns, beige and greens - then I have the Namib right there at sea. While travelling through the Namib, I coloured in my head the black and browns of the landscape with hues of blue - and it is truelly just asif we're at sea. Mind boggling. Even Eelco agreed. The roadtrip was hot and dusty. Birdlife quantity and variety was astounding. Game sighting along the roads were plentiful. But I dare say not 10% of the dust kicking cars flying by saw the well camo-ed animals.

             At the moment we are spending time in Jonkershoek Nature reserve area between the massive peaks and cliffs of the ... mountains. (Have you watched my JONKERSHOEK movie yet?) Then its off to Cape Town for some visa paperwork. Then on toward Pretoria for Christmas with the family and in the New Year we start with freedom chips and overseas trips again. As you can tell - we are well. 

              Wishing you all the best and hope to hear from you soon. 

   Eelco  and Mi-sá-lê -  blessed & happy  

HAULOUT Port Owen - South Africa

A shocking, anti-climax to 'normally'.

Sailing vessel Mylady has been quietly at rest in Port Owen Marina for the last few months. But now it was time to haulout at Port Owen Boatyard. On our way to the boatyard we ploughed half a keel deep through the mud, but eventually we got there.
          Mylady looked very good since her last haulout two and a half years ago. 
    Here at the boatyard the atmosphere is relaxed and the services effecient. 
     As always, there are more to do than 'just a scrub and paint'. Whilst we continue life on the hard and climbing high ladders, we'll keep on dreaming.

Why the "shocking, anti-climax to 'normally'"?
Because it is so relaxed.
How come?
Because the boatyard closed for a couple weeks holiday and we are all alone fiddling with dear old Mylady while we watch the thousands and thousands of cormorants flying to the fishing grounds every morning and returning every evening above the meandering river.

m/v Gitana - freedom chips

To fill up our freedom chips kitty, Eelco took a short relieve job on m.v Gitana in the Mediterranean Sea.   When he departed he       received a wonderful greeting card from the crew.  
We do value this tremendously. 

South Africa - KLEIN KAROO

We rented a car and travelled the Klein Karoo in South Africa. It was more than beautiful and truely a place where there is space for the mind. Please come along on our ride through the KLEIN KAROO.

m/v Panda

We were just properly settled at our new address on the west coast of South Africa when the question came from Total Crew (Dutch agency) - 'Are you available? Urgent relieve was needed on mv Panda.' Since we needed some freedom-chips, Eelco made the jump in one week's time from the Southern hemisphere to mv Panda in the northern hemisphere and relieved owner-skipper Henk Held. Onboard the Panda is good working conditions. The crew are returning crew. Therefore familiar with the boat and modes operandie - and with one another. Mv Panda ship handles like a dream. Her full electronic bridge, willing bow thruster, and effecient equipment, not to forget the touch screen stove, internet and other conveniences, make for many smiles. In a time when shipping is having it tough and many out of work, during Eelco's time onboard as skipper, the  charterer - Amadeus (German company) - kept mv Panda full time loaded and underway. Hats off to Brigitte at Amadeus. Mv Panda is 88.95m long and 12.5m wide. She runs on diesel. Dries out in the mud if shallow river ports require and doesn't want to stop when she's loaded. The engineer juggles the pumps and balast while chief mate exercise precision loading, everybody is tired but smiles when mv Panda pulls out of harbour and sails with a song.

SAILING THE AFRICAN COAST

Summarizing SAILING THE AFRICAN COAST with sv MYLADY.
Mozambique - we knew of sailboats doing the same crossing however, did not see any. Couple of fishing boats. Couple of big ships. Short cycled heavy cold fronts continuously. Real bad anchoring experience in changing for worse conditions with no good alternatives. Skipper got his finger chopped in the gypsy.
Richards Bay area - a couple of big ships going Indonesia direction.
Durban - Killer gale.
Between Durban and East Londen lots of big ship traffic both ways.
Agulhas current - formidable - running east to west. Close to coast was counter current and Bird Island took forever to get passed in the light winds. few whales. lots of comfort containers motoring past in lovely sailing weather. Plenty Cape Gannets around.
PE permission from harbour master to enter. Big entrance. Unfamiliar with clearing customs for pleasure craft. Visiting cruise ships. Bulk carriers loading magnesium oar (black dust covers everything). According local info the industrial harbour activities will be moved to the east side of Algoa Bay a good distance away, projected time 10 years. Plenty fishing boat activity close to PE. 'flight plan' an issue on leaving. Flight plan non-existing in Knysna or Port Owen.
Knysna - thick fog. tricky entrance. Keep to the leading line (very close to the westerly head.) Strong current in channel. Good holding in sandy-mud. VERY healthy water. Growth on the anchor chain, almost impossible to remove, after only two weeks on anchor. Play garden of all speed boats that do not keep to their designated area. Many regularly zig-zag full power between the yachts on anchor. Out going tide makes big breakers on both inner and outer bank at the heads.
Cape Agulhas - 5 knts E. big ship traffic (5 ships in 24 hrs) 2 heading for Mosselbay. Visibility on water clear. Coastline hazy. Good internet reception 12 miles off coast (vodacom). Fascinating beautiful sea-glow at night caused by plenty fish activity in fhosphorus water.
False Bay - fog clouds and veldfire smoke covered the mountains and shoreline. We passed in light winds.
Cape Point / Cape of good hope - 25 knots southerly. Hefty seas (for us from behind). Good going. Many shore lights and beacons. Had a near hit/mis with unlit sailboat.
Cape Town - Many big ship traffic
Atlantic ocean - plenty whales, solitary and moving, also group activity. Cold Benguela current. Thick and heavy, blinding fog. Shocking cold. Lots of seals.
St. Helena Bay - Stompneus Bay lovely to rest. Anchor stuck behind rocks. Millions of black cormarants parading the horizon just above the waves.
Port Owen - Plenty real big fishing boats alongside Laaiplek in the river. We were piloted up-river by marina manager. Quiet secure waters in Port Owen Marina. Tidal river flood banks teaming with birdlife. Relaxed atmosphere. Lively Port Owen Yacht Club organizing sailing races and activities and weekly suppers and social. A great place to rest for a while.

SOUTH AFRICA Knysna

We approached Knysna on the Garden Route at the south coast of South Africa in thick fog, the first week in December. It lifted and densified alternately. We were waiting for the tide to rise and therefore at peace standing off and lining up with the leading lights from a way-out distance. A local adventure ridged inflatable came to us on their way back to Knysna with, "Welcome to Knysna. It's your first time here? The heads are calm today, you don't have to wait for the high tide." He greeted goodbye and disappeared between the waves and swell at the heads. I swallowed. We concentrated hard. The front white light of the leading lights were difficult to keep and eye on between all the other buildings. The rocks of the western head were too close for comfort and the waves and swell teamed up to pull and push us out of the line of safe entry. And the known troublesome rock in the middle of the entrance was submerged and unmarked, with different identifications from different sources. By all qualifications not an easy-on-my-heart entry. As always the relieve comes sudden when one realizes the major obstacles are passed.

Not being able to see good colour of the shallow water, we pottered in one bend when a local dinghy came to us pointing where the deeper water channel runs and we finally spotted a buoy for direction. After half an hour motoring and almost running aground on the sandbank close to the yacht club, a local boatowner led the way in his dinghy to a safe anchoring spot. We put the anchor down and didn't move it again. The current is strong in the main channel and Mylady, one of only three deep keel monohulls in catamaran valley, swung all over the place. During springtide low it was a bit shocking to see how big and close the sand islands then exposed, were.
The yacht club people were friendly and helpful. Anchoring is free. Temporary membership at the yacht club was R110- a week for a couple. The showers tall enough for Eelco and lovely hot. After New Zealand where one has to pay extra to use the showers this is nice to may use enough water for an enjoyable shower.
Knysna town is beautiful as seen from the water. There are three big shopping malls and all other shops and services one may require, available. Restaurants galore. The Timber Village has beautiful wood carved statues on display at the waterfront. And even more fascinating things and furniture at their village. We met Bryan who makes kites at Knysna Kites and we enjoyed exotic and exquisite tastes from That Platter Guy at the Friday afternoon market of the Montosouri school where local Knysna comes out for a good eat and social. We still savoured some of his salmon pate, gorgonzola, and ginger with peppadew cream cheese as we sailed passed Cape Agulhas. It was time for us to leave Knysna Lagoon with all the speedboats chasing around so inconsiderate of the anchored yachts.

South Africa - MEIRINGSPOORT

Come on a ride with us through the impressive MEIRINGSPOORT in the Klein Karoo in the Cape.

South Africa - BUTTERFLY WORLD

Just outside Paarl, in the Cape, is the Butterfly World. Which is also a sanctuary to many other creatures. Share with me the beauty and joy I experienced. Thanks.

Thanks for visiting

We appreciate everyone visiting us so regularly. Your contact is valued. Keep well.

PORT ELIZABETH

Port Elizabeth, about halfway between Cape Town and Durban on the south coast of Africa: a friendly people.

They were right there on the jetty to take our lines and welcomed us. Our every wish was no problem. Facilities at the marina and yacht club were clean and good. The yacht club restaurant was packed every day. It was clear that foreigh yachts don't make landfall in Port Elizabeth. Customs were initially confused but we did get our stamps eventually. PE is big and the yacht club far from town. King Cab Taxis were the best. Good rates, good cars, good

service. Waiting times were correct and their drivers knowledgable and helpful. With such a King Cab Taxi we made a tour through the old and new Port Elizabeth and learned a lot. We spent lots of time and money running around to refill the cooking gas. 

And then the wind turned Southeast. Twentyfours hours later we discovered with shock and dismay a fine oily black dust covering the whole boat inside out. Where one touched or walked you left a track. The walls, ropes, inside drawers, under the spreaders and solars, up one's nostrils - absolutely everything was dusted black. Big bulk carriers were loading magnesium oar in the southeast corner of the harbour. Needless to say, we left PE that evening. 

This report was written a month later (and published even yet a month later) and even though we have been springcleaning the boat ever since and in a thorough way never done or needed before, we are still discovering black magnesium dust every day.  

KEEPING WATCH on an OCEAN not big enough.

One thinks you're alone out on the ocean when things go wrong – and you are.

Originally the wind was confused and we just put the anchor down in the ocean and waited. Ocean it was but still on the shelf of twenty meter in the northwest corner of Madagascar. A romantic just for two sunset sky coloured our world beautiful. We enjoyed it as such. On the deck we raised a glass to good health and a wonderful life.    

         Just as we settled on our watch routine, things started happening. From all places in the world a once-a-month-ferry happened to do its run and aimed directly for us. Immediate concern was high on Mylady. Not about this or that but one tends to not notice the normal stuff next to the road one drives to work everyday. Would the ferry have a proper lookout on a route they take every month year in and year out, in a country with very little nightime traffic? We feared the answer was 'no'. If they did, would they demand right of way?

As the very big ferry roared closer – thank goodness it had navigation lights on – we tried everything to draw its attention. Our anchor light was on but we also flashed the decklights on and off. Blew the foghorn. Kept the bright lights going. When skipper threw the spotlight on the ferry, another boat, not far from the bow of Mylady, flashed us back.

         Oh dear – a big fishing boat was pottering about on a one cylinder which laboured loud but even, between the ferry and us. With no lights on! What made it worse was the engulfing pitch dark of no moon.

         Finally the ferry changed course making its intention clear to pass us safely. What a relieve it was to see both the unlit fishing boat and the ferry noticed us.

When one wants to be alone out on the ocean and relax, there always seems to be a traffic jam with yourself in the midst. A no-watch system always have a 100% chance of disaster. Shortly after, a good breeze started. We heaved anchor and sailed away. 

Christmas 2015

We get small gifts along the way in life, which do not cost a lot of money. We are honoured to receive from our extended circles, such gifts. We wish for you, who are visiting here right now, love-a-plenty and lots of good health.

From Madagascar to Mozambique Channel on to South-Africa

We have left Madagascar and are aiming for South-Africa. The Mozambique Channel is an interesting piece of water to sail. There are so many different influences. The many different currents and counter currents are the most noticeable. If we're not pushed the wrong direction under full sail forward, then we're flying at danger speed the good direction. Gales and squalls are common. Mylady had her fair share of bad weather but is handling it well. At the moment of writing we are cruising along with one knot and no wind. bird problems..

Madagascar

We surfed to the north cape of Madagscar with 35kn. The counter current on the west side of Madagascar immediately introduced itself. Our average speed of 5 - 6 knots declined in ten counts to 2 knots. It is the oddest feeling to come to such a quick 'stand stil' after 24 days of full-on sailing. The Southeaster peaked at 45kn and helped us on beams-end over white waters to Nose Hara. Finally – rest. Nose Hara is a fascinating island with very interesting rock formations and landscape. It is very impressive and we enjoyed our rest there where we could air out the boat after the long ocean voyage.
         On towards Nosy Mitsio and we got acquited with the tremendous variable currents and wind directions in the space of one day. It must have been the most frustrating day skipper has yet experienced.

We arrived in Hellville, Nose Be, mid morning. And were almost immediately greeted and welcomed by Kool, who in partnership with Jimmy, take care of the dinghies for a fee. The quay has no facilities for dinghies and the port is over crowded with local boats and ferries all day long. Thus, it was real handy to have Kool and Jimmy there for help. Jimmy speaks English and went with us for the clearing in procedures, for a fee. If you speak french, you might be able to have the bribes pass you by. If you don't, like we, you're bound to pay all the bribes. Which ofcourse you expect at the time, but are unable to voice a stand-off.

Nosi Mamoko was our first experience of village life. The lady chief (who arrived long after us) was a proper b...t.. Honestly the worst experience of 'local' we have yet had in any country. Our initial good feelings she wiped clean with her unfriendly, demanding, un-accommodating attitude. We had no reason to stay in her village where filth abound and lemurs are sick looking, therefore left.

Russian Bay was super good. Andre's Restaurant was a delight.

Value for money. Hearty meals (ordered before). Good tasting Madagascar beer -  English style - and locally produced good rice wine and all kinds of interesting things, like good and happy looking lemurs. Fresh baked bread can be ordered – which we did more than once. Andreas is actually a wealth of information. We made a tour with Paul over the mountains and were very happy with the care he took and the local knowledge he could share with us in English. Again – value for money. Watch out for Polene(sp?). Confirm with Andre's who's the good and who's the bad guys. One day and night a tent safari pitched camp under the palms on the beach front. The tour guide, Ravo, made a good impression when we met on shore. It reminded me of catered safaris we did in Namibia. We sailed twice to Russian Bay and

stayed fourteen days total even though we only planned two days. Snorkeling was good. Schools of fish stayed happily around our boat. Russian Bay was good.

The Honey River had no honey but the school was very happy with the English / Malagasy dictionary we gave them. No-where did we had security issues yet, but everywhere alertness is high. The people in general are friendly. 

INDIAN OCEAN CROSSING 2015

From Cocos Keeling to north Madagascar was a hard, looooooong sail. Uncomfortable. Heavy, huge seas and swell which ran in no co-herent fashion - all the time. 30-40 kn winds were a constant. Two days - out of the twenty four days - were ideal blue water sailing. The windvane steering sometimes could not keep up with the repetitive onslaught of the seas. In due course the steering line snapped. Eelco dressed up in his safety harness and clipped himself to the pushpit then clambered over board down the stern while the liquid mountains charged onto us. He retrieved the broken line and strung the replacement line successfully. I was so uptight and worried, I forgot to take pictures. The heavy seas took its toll on the steering gear too. A couple of times there were a big 'bang!'. One of the 'bangs' was the starboard main stay snapped off a 12mm rod. We also discovered with dismay that the weight of the danbuoy has rusted off. Hooray for life on the saltwater.... Two good things about the Indian Ocean. 1) The current is a true plus. 2) The weather was mostly sunny, warm and dry.