KEEPING WATCH on an OCEAN not big enough.

One thinks you're alone out on the ocean when things go wrong – and you are.

Originally the wind was confused and we just put the anchor down in the ocean and waited. Ocean it was but still on the shelf of twenty meter in the northwest corner of Madagascar. A romantic just for two sunset sky coloured our world beautiful. We enjoyed it as such. On the deck we raised a glass to good health and a wonderful life.    

         Just as we settled on our watch routine, things started happening. From all places in the world a once-a-month-ferry happened to do its run and aimed directly for us. Immediate concern was high on Mylady. Not about this or that but one tends to not notice the normal stuff next to the road one drives to work everyday. Would the ferry have a proper lookout on a route they take every month year in and year out, in a country with very little nightime traffic? We feared the answer was 'no'. If they did, would they demand right of way?

As the very big ferry roared closer – thank goodness it had navigation lights on – we tried everything to draw its attention. Our anchor light was on but we also flashed the decklights on and off. Blew the foghorn. Kept the bright lights going. When skipper threw the spotlight on the ferry, another boat, not far from the bow of Mylady, flashed us back.

         Oh dear – a big fishing boat was pottering about on a one cylinder which laboured loud but even, between the ferry and us. With no lights on! What made it worse was the engulfing pitch dark of no moon.

         Finally the ferry changed course making its intention clear to pass us safely. What a relieve it was to see both the unlit fishing boat and the ferry noticed us.

When one wants to be alone out on the ocean and relax, there always seems to be a traffic jam with yourself in the midst. A no-watch system always have a 100% chance of disaster. Shortly after, a good breeze started. We heaved anchor and sailed away. 

INDIAN OCEAN CROSSING 2015

From Cocos Keeling to north Madagascar was a hard, looooooong sail. Uncomfortable. Heavy, huge seas and swell which ran in no co-herent fashion - all the time. 30-40 kn winds were a constant. Two days - out of the twenty four days - were ideal blue water sailing. The windvane steering sometimes could not keep up with the repetitive onslaught of the seas. In due course the steering line snapped. Eelco dressed up in his safety harness and clipped himself to the pushpit then clambered over board down the stern while the liquid mountains charged onto us. He retrieved the broken line and strung the replacement line successfully. I was so uptight and worried, I forgot to take pictures. The heavy seas took its toll on the steering gear too. A couple of times there were a big 'bang!'. One of the 'bangs' was the starboard main stay snapped off a 12mm rod. We also discovered with dismay that the weight of the danbuoy has rusted off. Hooray for life on the saltwater.... Two good things about the Indian Ocean. 1) The current is a true plus. 2) The weather was mostly sunny, warm and dry. 

BAD experience in Savusavu, Fiji

My time here in Savusavu marina, Fiji has been shockingly bad. In 6 months, 9 boat breakins (2 of my neighbours). Filthy verbal abuse by disrespectful young fishermen diving at the boats made me fear rape. No support from the hierarchy. The wife of the local expat vet who seems to be running this marina, openly accused the yachts of being the problem. Yet, we learned this marina never did the goodwill thing with the local chiefs. And yes, not they or the police did anything about the burglary cases. It is a behind the hand bad mouthing case if you are in a click or not. And since I am a strong individual and seemingly the only one who will open my mouth (or rather put pen to paper to whom it may concern) regarding my rights of respect and services , I have been the target of no good. Therefore - my time here was spend alone and productively on Mylady. There is one expat here - Curly, from NZ ( http://curlycarswell.blogspot.com  please check out his site ), who is a big exception to the rule. And in his grey old age, he keeps soldiering on. He was, and still is, my reason for not running away from this unsafe, disgraceful place called Savusavu. A FALSE paradise, with rats, spiders, and mina bird infestation where you swim in your own sweat. Had we known, we would not have been here. Had we only known.

You will do other cruisers a favour if you spread the word about this or hang a print out on your notice board.  I'm now ten years on the water, but this time spent in Savusavu Marina has destroyed the beauty that was part of cruising. Nakama Creek from top to bottom is regularly a stinking, soiled with waste - disgrace. If not oil and diesel, then from household and farming. Not to mention the black snow that creeps into, and covers, everything.

Husband is back. I am so glad. He has a Pacific Ulcer which shocked the living daylights out of us. The private docter here is good and affordable. The wound which went down to the bone, is under control. We are working full speed to get MYLADY ready for leaving the South Pacific. 
The picture:  Sad but true - terror and suicide in paradise.

On the move again

We have had a lovely time the last month in the Historic Stone Store Basin. Mylady had her anchor out with two aft lines to the shore. Our refit-on-the-go-project had us ended up in Kerikeri to get Craig of Willis Sails on board to measure our new sails. Then the township of Kerikeri was just so handy to do a few more jobs... We replaced the fresh water tank with new made by Hercules Tanks of Tauranga.   Sophie of Kerikeri pumps was ever so helpful in supplying all our hoses and connections and much more. Good weather prevailed with the big man crawling around in small spaces. The wind generator came down for some lubrication and check-up and now swings with less struggle.  Whilst I was rolling thumbs, the polish man came around and gave Mylady a super shine. Oh, and there was also time to meet new people and old friends. The motorman had two long days in the engine room changing all the old for new, supposedly she's 

purring perfect now.  We left the Kerikeri River on a run with lots of wind from behind. The new storm sail was tested and found to be good. And after coming on anchor the little riding sail immediately went up to keep Mylady steady in the wind. We are so happy with so many of our little this-and-that things. Like for instance the furling genoa cover which we finally figured out and now works good. Will be testing our new sails in the coming days.  Following is my easy bread baking on top of the gas stove demo.  Enjoy !

Yacht Captain DUTIES

What are you doing all the time ? The ever familiar question.  Well here's some of the things keeping the captain busy.

Cruising New Zealand

A lot of time has passed.  Sorry for not keeping in touch.  Following is a brief summary of what’s been happening with us.  First and foremost – we are well.  After Eelco’s time on the Janette last November, we spent some family time in Holland.  No it didn’t snow. 

We explored the inland of Netherland by train and had a great time.  I fell in love with the quaint town of Delfts.  Maastricht in the south was super interesting.  For instance the ‘wall of Jerigo’ around the old city – fascinating.  I didn’t realize the walls were so wide.  We walked on top of the wall where they had veggie gardens and fruit trees growing between the canons.  They had bakeries where people queued in the streets and the bread bought by its weight – absolutely memorable delicious.

End of January we were back in New Zealand and did the regular haul out, scrub and paint.  Also some major maintenance like galvanizing the anchor and chain and installed a new anchor winch.  Yes, the old one said ‘ten years were enough’.  And then we could finally take off to explore the northern tip of New Zealand.  We enjoyed our cruising time there.  The Cavalie Islands were great, Whangaroa a sheer delight and Doubtless Bay fascinating.  In Mangonui was an art gallery in the old courthouse where I could stay forever.  The air, the feeling, the life of the place, the paintings, the crafts, were vibrant, different, alive and inspirational.  And there was this Maori goddess swirling from out of the sea with all kinds of sealife mingling with her long wavy hair.  Her features were fine, clear, delightful and powerful – Mother of the Sea.  

I loved it.

 

On our way back we were homesteading in sea anchorages.  In one such place we rode out a severe gale coming from the SSE.   However when the storm decided to turn to the west, we all of a sudden had a problem.  In wind of 50 kn(100km/h) and flattening rain, we scurried to weigh the two anchors back on board and motored to the leeside of the bay.  But there it was open to the sea and big swell was running.  Judged by the onlookers arriving on the beach in their cars in the pouring rain, seeing a yacht there, and especially in those conditions, was not an everyday occurrence.   We survived it all, thank God.   

We connected again with old time sailing friends, caught a few tuna and revisited beautiful bays.  Even Dingo from Oz caught up with us and we were honoured to receive a warm loaf of the best home baked bread.  Mylady is now resting quietly on the Kerikeri River in New Zealand.  I’m visiting my granddaughter in Texas and Eelco is collecting freedom chips for us. 

Maclean, Clarence River, NSW, Australia

It rained all day the previous two days so the grey drizzles early morning was but a mere continuation of the weather pattern. Between two bouts of more misty rain coming down, we packed the dinghy and hurried to shore. A beautiful White Heron waded in the shallows. Atop a close-by tree sat a Brahminy Kite with his contrasting white chest and warm red-brown wings, turning his head to face us over his back. On the shore Magpies and Butcher Birds chattered happily. All the birds were at peace with the rainy conditions. We continued on to our first book signing.