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PORT ELIZABETH

Port Elizabeth, about halfway between Cape Town and Durban on the south coast of Africa: a friendly people.

They were right there on the jetty to take our lines and welcomed us. Our every wish was no problem. Facilities at the marina and yacht club were clean and good. The yacht club restaurant was packed every day. It was clear that foreigh yachts don't make landfall in Port Elizabeth. Customs were initially confused but we did get our stamps eventually. PE is big and the yacht club far from town. King Cab Taxis were the best. Good rates, good cars, good

service. Waiting times were correct and their drivers knowledgable and helpful. With such a King Cab Taxi we made a tour through the old and new Port Elizabeth and learned a lot. We spent lots of time and money running around to refill the cooking gas. 

And then the wind turned Southeast. Twentyfours hours later we discovered with shock and dismay a fine oily black dust covering the whole boat inside out. Where one touched or walked you left a track. The walls, ropes, inside drawers, under the spreaders and solars, up one's nostrils - absolutely everything was dusted black. Big bulk carriers were loading magnesium oar in the southeast corner of the harbour. Needless to say, we left PE that evening. 

This report was written a month later (and published even yet a month later) and even though we have been springcleaning the boat ever since and in a thorough way never done or needed before, we are still discovering black magnesium dust every day.  

Voyage of s/v MYLADY 2015

KEEPING WATCH on an OCEAN not big enough.

One thinks you're alone out on the ocean when things go wrong – and you are.

Originally the wind was confused and we just put the anchor down in the ocean and waited. Ocean it was but still on the shelf of twenty meter in the northwest corner of Madagascar. A romantic just for two sunset sky coloured our world beautiful. We enjoyed it as such. On the deck we raised a glass to good health and a wonderful life.    

         Just as we settled on our watch routine, things started happening. From all places in the world a once-a-month-ferry happened to do its run and aimed directly for us. Immediate concern was high on Mylady. Not about this or that but one tends to not notice the normal stuff next to the road one drives to work everyday. Would the ferry have a proper lookout on a route they take every month year in and year out, in a country with very little nightime traffic? We feared the answer was 'no'. If they did, would they demand right of way?

As the very big ferry roared closer – thank goodness it had navigation lights on – we tried everything to draw its attention. Our anchor light was on but we also flashed the decklights on and off. Blew the foghorn. Kept the bright lights going. When skipper threw the spotlight on the ferry, another boat, not far from the bow of Mylady, flashed us back.

         Oh dear – a big fishing boat was pottering about on a one cylinder which laboured loud but even, between the ferry and us. With no lights on! What made it worse was the engulfing pitch dark of no moon.

         Finally the ferry changed course making its intention clear to pass us safely. What a relieve it was to see both the unlit fishing boat and the ferry noticed us.

When one wants to be alone out on the ocean and relax, there always seems to be a traffic jam with yourself in the midst. A no-watch system always have a 100% chance of disaster. Shortly after, a good breeze started. We heaved anchor and sailed away. 

Christmas 2015

We get small gifts along the way in life, which do not cost a lot of money. We are honoured to receive from our extended circles, such gifts. We wish for you, who are visiting here right now, love-a-plenty and lots of good health.

The GIFT of Knysna

We are resting in Knysna on the south coast of South Africa. We had a lovely tour through the Little Karoo (writing coming later) and are now having a stall in 

the GIFT OF KNYSNA 
event in Knysna on 

the Garden Route of South Africa. We will take part till 23 December from 9h00-18h00. Meeting all the local artists is a delight. And our story intrigues many.

SAMMNET

With a firm, clear and caring voice Sam gave us weather info for our specific situation. It was re-assuring at the times we were in for some bad weather. And it was most valuable during the times we could not get proper connections to Sailmail for our own weather info.
Send an email to zs1sammnet@worldonline.co.za with your position, boat speed and course.
Our information was registered at the South African Maritime Net for in case of emergencies. During the transmission we could not call in since we are not a Ham station, but Sam would call us and then give weather.
SAMMNET on 14316 USB at 06:30 UTC
From Simonstown the South African Maritime Mobile Net operates on Ham radio frequencies twice daily, 7 days a week and 365 days a year and provides weather reports from around the South African coast and the deep-sea areas from Brazil and Argentina in the west and to Australia in the east and into the Mozambique channel, the Seychelles and Maldives area.
We are grateful for his concerned help during our voyage from Madagascar to South Africa.

From Madagascar to Mozambique Channel on to South-Africa

We have left Madagascar and are aiming for South-Africa. The Mozambique Channel is an interesting piece of water to sail. There are so many different influences. The many different currents and counter currents are the most noticeable. If we're not pushed the wrong direction under full sail forward, then we're flying at danger speed the good direction. Gales and squalls are common. Mylady had her fair share of bad weather but is handling it well. At the moment of writing we are cruising along with one knot and no wind. bird problems..

Madagascar

We surfed to the north cape of Madagscar with 35kn. The counter current on the west side of Madagascar immediately introduced itself. Our average speed of 5 - 6 knots declined in ten counts to 2 knots. It is the oddest feeling to come to such a quick 'stand stil' after 24 days of full-on sailing. The Southeaster peaked at 45kn and helped us on beams-end over white waters to Nose Hara. Finally – rest. Nose Hara is a fascinating island with very interesting rock formations and landscape. It is very impressive and we enjoyed our rest there where we could air out the boat after the long ocean voyage.
         On towards Nosy Mitsio and we got acquited with the tremendous variable currents and wind directions in the space of one day. It must have been the most frustrating day skipper has yet experienced.

We arrived in Hellville, Nose Be, mid morning. And were almost immediately greeted and welcomed by Kool, who in partnership with Jimmy, take care of the dinghies for a fee. The quay has no facilities for dinghies and the port is over crowded with local boats and ferries all day long. Thus, it was real handy to have Kool and Jimmy there for help. Jimmy speaks English and went with us for the clearing in procedures, for a fee. If you speak french, you might be able to have the bribes pass you by. If you don't, like we, you're bound to pay all the bribes. Which ofcourse you expect at the time, but are unable to voice a stand-off.

Nosi Mamoko was our first experience of village life. The lady chief (who arrived long after us) was a proper b...t.. Honestly the worst experience of 'local' we have yet had in any country. Our initial good feelings she wiped clean with her unfriendly, demanding, un-accommodating attitude. We had no reason to stay in her village where filth abound and lemurs are sick looking, therefore left.

Russian Bay was super good. Andre's Restaurant was a delight.

Value for money. Hearty meals (ordered before). Good tasting Madagascar beer -  English style - and locally produced good rice wine and all kinds of interesting things, like good and happy looking lemurs. Fresh baked bread can be ordered – which we did more than once. Andreas is actually a wealth of information. We made a tour with Paul over the mountains and were very happy with the care he took and the local knowledge he could share with us in English. Again – value for money. Watch out for Polene(sp?). Confirm with Andre's who's the good and who's the bad guys. One day and night a tent safari pitched camp under the palms on the beach front. The tour guide, Ravo, made a good impression when we met on shore. It reminded me of catered safaris we did in Namibia. We sailed twice to Russian Bay and

stayed fourteen days total even though we only planned two days. Snorkeling was good. Schools of fish stayed happily around our boat. Russian Bay was good.

The Honey River had no honey but the school was very happy with the English / Malagasy dictionary we gave them. No-where did we had security issues yet, but everywhere alertness is high. The people in general are friendly. 

SAILMAIL FAILED

We were 18 days on Indian Ocean passage without contact to weather info or any other people. 

World wide coverage by Sailmail is not true. 

There is just one Africa station and it does not function properly.  

INDIAN OCEAN CROSSING 2015

From Cocos Keeling to north Madagascar was a hard, looooooong sail. Uncomfortable. Heavy, huge seas and swell which ran in no co-herent fashion - all the time. 30-40 kn winds were a constant. Two days - out of the twenty four days - were ideal blue water sailing. The windvane steering sometimes could not keep up with the repetitive onslaught of the seas. In due course the steering line snapped. Eelco dressed up in his safety harness and clipped himself to the pushpit then clambered over board down the stern while the liquid mountains charged onto us. He retrieved the broken line and strung the replacement line successfully. I was so uptight and worried, I forgot to take pictures. The heavy seas took its toll on the steering gear too. A couple of times there were a big 'bang!'. One of the 'bangs' was the starboard main stay snapped off a 12mm rod. We also discovered with dismay that the weight of the danbuoy has rusted off. Hooray for life on the saltwater.... Two good things about the Indian Ocean. 1) The current is a true plus. 2) The weather was mostly sunny, warm and dry. 

Cocos Keeling

An Oasis in the Indian Ocean. Be sure to stop there if you go direction West. Al you need is an Australian visa. The local police are the best ambassadors Australia could wish for. 
Around the boat fish, squid, turtles, dolphins, and sharks abound. Crystal clear water present the coral frightning close - even though it is deep. All the variations of turquoise colour are spread out in the panorama and in the 'RIB' dance plenty green parrot fish close to the rocky edge. 
Regularly many kite surfers glide across the big beautiful lagoon. Anchor holding is rock solid in pure white sand. 
Directions Island has a rich history and the hermit crab population florishes. Lots of signatures are left by visiting yachts. 
On the day of our departure, an out-of-this-world big cutoms ship filled the entrance to the bay. They checked us out and kindly wished us a good voyage. MORE..

knock down

We are seven days west of Cocos Keeling and had four knock downs (tipped over on the side with water running over the winches) the last three days. The seas are so very big and confused. Wind is only 25-30kn SE but we're on the smallest of storm sails. Mylady and crew are apart from brined inside out, well. sea-people life ...

DARWIN

Fanny Bay anchorage in front of the sailing club of Darwin, is big. Boats anchoring way out in the distance because of the big tides. Making going ashore a big schlep (trouble). But being considerate the club has fat wheel trolleys the boaties may use to get dinghies out of and into the low water. Very handy, we agree. On the other side of the bay two war ships and two marine supply vessels and a customs boat were on anchor. We felt safe. We liked Darwin. And it sunsets...

TIMOR SEA

The Timor Sea might be in the Indian Ocean, but none of the Indian Ocean mean characteristics apply. We expected strong trade-winds, but barely got any. Flat seas lump and slither. Night time the thought of wind there was during the day, goes sleep. So do we. Sails down. Anchor light up. Mylady drifting in zig-sag circles with the tide. (Yes, it's a sea snake in the pic. There were plenty.)

Australia, cruise 2015

We thoroughly enjoyed our time in Australia. Wonderful people.  Departing Darwin heading west for Madagascar. 
The croc story ...

LONESOME cruising

Off the beaten track? No. Just going around the northern point of Australia, westward. Just a route. 
Dangerous? Not any more than the normal. 

Weather's absolutely perfect - warm days, cool evenings, wind and seas from behind. 
How many marina's or ports for convenience are there from Cooktown in the northeast to Darwin in the north? 
None. 
How many other cruising boats did we see over this 1100 nautical mile distance? 
Three. 
It is just a surprise for us both to experience so few cruising boats. Somehow I thought being in a developed country with such a big yachting industry, and the Indonesian cruising grounds just above Australia in a hop, skip and jump distance, that one would see a yacht from time to time. Clearly we were completely wrong.
    Fortunately we are a happy two-some that don't mind our lonesome (note: not lonely) exploring of new shores and its secrets and showcases. We always enjoy the natural life. Sometimes we even feel special apart from privileged - being at, or part of, creation's beauty and wonders. Every day there is something new to learn.  And we have not even been at five percent of the possible anchorages. Yet there were many places I wished to stay longer. A place worth returning to - the north coast of Australia. Mi sa le (I shall return). Read more...

CRUISING wEATHER along the sunshine Queensland coast.

The High pressure systems rolling across Australia to the east are regular and we get the associated SE tradewinds with it. The perfect direction to take us to the north of OZ. In general we have 3 or 4 or 5 days strong south easterlies then two days of light winds. Our cruising schedule is thus accordingly. A few days sailing from break-of-day till the next overnight spot (sometimes short-, other times long hops). Then a couple of days resting and catching up with home chores and exploring. We've had fair weather mostly. Not enough rain to catch water but getting miserably wet seems to be a constant. The 'Sunshine Coast' we've only occationally experienced with glimpses. It is warm temperatures and that we like. The sun shone, the trades blew, and the current raged as we rounded the top of Australia leaving the Pacific Ocean after eleven years. Read more

CRUISING SECURITY ALERT for Australia, Queensland.

The following I presume could be encountered anywhere where there are plenty yachts. But this happened to us on the Queensland coast.
* aggresive yacht attack on Mylady sailboat.
* un-manned yachts under full sail and motor.
The alarm went at 5:30am and the anchor was on deck at 6:00am. While skipper was still securing the anchor, I steered Mylady out to sea. We noticed the only other yacht in the bay at North Palm Island, at the far opposite side, who came in late afternoon the previous day, also have navigation lights on. We were moving opposite directions. I turned back to the bay to pass them red to red. But they turned also inside. I turned more to not be misunderstood, but so did they. Deciding if they want to pass us on the shore side I'll go to sea. Making an almost 90 degree I headed out to sea. But they turned with us. Confused I asked skipper am I reading the lights right? He turned around and ordered 'Give gas!' The lights (boat) was concerningly close. We sped away. But they followed at high speed. Skipper took the wheel and after a short full rev run, stopped the boat. The aggresive yacht who reved up with us, made a sharp turn to the south and passed our stern at arms length. 'IDIOTS! skipper shouted'. The yacht motored away as the day was breaking. 
The unmanned yacht we encountered earlier going to Airlie Beach. We were sailing on a strong southeasterly, hard to windward, the last leg to Airlie Beach. A big yacht under full sail came out from Airlie Beach heading our way. Since we were on a concerned course, we kept a close eye on it. We soon realized he was motoring but not a person in sight. In all the time that we passed him and afterwards till he was out of sight, no human was visible. It left an eerie feeling to know at full speed in very changeable weather, their are yachts with NO LOOKOUT.
Read about other travellers...

STUCK IN UPSTART BAY

We woke after midnight from the scream of our wind generator. A windgust from a southerly shore wind shifted us into another direction. Steadily the squealling of the anchor bunner started to increase and the anchorchain grinding on the bow. With the arrival of daylight we started to hieve anchor. Our suspicions grounded to a halt with the anchor. Stuck. 
First we tried the gentle way. Skipper on the bow trying to follow the chain around the corners it took to wrap itself around the rocks, while I do my best to steer the boat the intended way. Still stuck.
Then the tough way. With brute force and maximum revs on the engine, the braking strength of the anchor, the chain, the boat deck as well as the nerves of the crew are tested to the limit. Still stuck.
Finally the smart way. Remembering the triumph card of sv Mylady with her super good back-off ability, skipper took the wheel and motored around our anchor and then reversed full force the other way. 
The tension loaded anchorchain gave a jump and fell slack. Did the chain break? I couldn't tell and feared the answer. I winched the chain back into the anchorlocker while skipper kept motoring fast backwards. We both were immensely relieved to see the anchor coming above water. 
"Do you dive?" a local fisherman and his wife asked when we went ashore.
"No. Why?"
"There's a pot of gold down there where you were stuck. You're not the first one. We've seen lots of chain and anchor go down there, never to come up again."
'This is James Morill country.'

Waypoint sailors

Nowadays hordes of new generation cruisers jump on the bandwagon of sailing around the world. The initial passion of discovering and experiencing the unknown had to make way for the number factor. Today the reason is "to be counted".  To be able to say you've done it. Or perhaps to say 'could afford it', since everthing cruising has become so ridiculously expensive. Therefore the today cruiser crosses the oceans with blind trust in human developements like gps, sattelite and insurance. 
The time when a certain amount of skill and interest were required to be able to navigate. Or finding a good star and horison at exactly the good time of morning or evening to take a bearing of and work out with lots of maths and tables and what have you's, where on earth (actually on the ocean) are you in order to ensure you continue in the good direction, are all things and facts which fill history books now. 
In an idyllic anchorage up in a sheltered creek in Savusavu Bay one day, motored True Blue Ozzie yacht passed us on their way out. They made a confusing zig-zag-turn between empty moorings. We thought they were busy with other things and not on attention. A short while later, the South-African catamaran Impi also passed us on their way out. She up on the bow keeping a lookout. He charging at too high speed as was his habit, between the yachts. At exactly the same place between the empty moorings, Impi made the exact same confusing and unnessary (in fact a more risky maneuver towards the coral edge, than safe) zig-zag-turn between the empty moorings. It instantly struck us clear as lightning - waypoint sailors. Not allowing themselves to trust their own observations and logics. Yet, Impi advertises his waypoints on his blog, for other insecure cruisers to follow?
From time to time we also wish for waypoints...

MYLADY in the Whitsundays

We are spending some time in the Whitsundays off the Queensland coast in Australia. It is beautiful when its not raining. The Southeaster tradewinds helped us along all the time and the very strong tidal currents play havoc with our plans. It is a total delight to see schools of fish jump and run as they avoid being next on the menu. Birds chatter and twitter as I think they only do in OZ. Fish eagles glided over us a few times. Lots of local tourists everywhere - snorkling. And what do we do? Take pictures of the colourful rocks. The Whitsundays is a very nice cruising ground. Here one can spend time....  Also please read the turquoise sea. 

MYLADY VOYAGE from Fiji to Australia

Monday is not a good time to clear suctoms first thing in the morning. We finally departed at noon. The ocean state was not bad and winds just enough. We went south around Fiji. Two days later though, the seasickness held the triumph card. Sailing was good in general. Seas mostly from behind. A phantom storm which had no reason or explanation had us running for our lives with 50kn chasers. Fortunately it was a one night event. 
Some days were diamonds.
Other days were filled with crashers onboard.
Some days were gold.
Other days we dropped sails at night, anchorlight on and went to bed with the sleeping tradewinds.
More than 50% of the time we had glorious, fantastic, awesome sunrises and sunsets.  Asif we were starving, we ate and ate as much we could of our dried and special products to avoid OZ quarantine taking it off. Birdlife was sadly limited to the count of ten. None fish caught. Saw some flyingfish. 

Ended the voyage with a two day gale which was forcasted to be 20-30kn. However, we got the also forcasted 'could be 40% stronger' at 40-50kns. The very steep, high, furious and sickening seas, tried to pluck the mast off deck and in the process ripped the starboard front stay out from deck. We made landfall in Mackay, OZ, safely. 
(The repaired stay bolt) Please read the emotional experience of the voyage also. 

Auction of original painting

"Support a good cause, half of the price, min costs, will be gifted to your yacht club or good cause." the artist.
Feel free to use this for fundraising of your good cause. Contact me for more information and encourage your members, friends and family to support the good cause of the auction of this painting.

shake-down cruise

Out and about cruising. We went for a shakedown sail to test everything on sailboat Mylady after her long cyclone laid-up. I was testing the extremes of seasickness in no time at all and skipper turned the boat around to be kind to me. We will sail many miles this year. Comfortably we tucked in a big bay just a stones throw from smoke covered Savusavu and its stinking creek. Fortunately that anchorage is tooooo far for the international yachts to cruise to.

We enjoyed the plenty-plenty fish, birds singing and fishing canoes on the reefs who always greet 'Bula!' And on shore we were treated as specialty. 
After a few days, the wind turned favourable and we sailed out again. This time to the Namena Reef. And with good strong wind and choppy seas, we continued to Nairai the next day. Our return to Nairai was greeted with great excitement and tears. Nobody ever returns... We gifted plenty good books, some supplied by Curly in Savusavu, to the chief and Ana and we shared the Balolo Rising in the school and village. Even thouh the reefworm is something from here, it is not experienced by many. Everybody appreciated and enjoyed. 
Our sail back was a perfect trail of what the Indian Ocean will be. The conclusion of our shakedown cruise - sailboat Mylady is a worthy ocean going craft. As soon as the visa is in, we'll set sail.

ANCHORING DISASTER

Appearance can be extremely misleading. The ever present rust hides, spreads and creeps into everything on a boat and then devours all in its path. Sometimes with frightening speed. The

shackle of this hook used on the anchor chain looked fair. It would not budge when pounded with a hammer. This year with the wonder of TIME skipper who returned early to Mylady, could with a lot of TLC, get the pin out. Horror struck. 
We hung onto that?

the STORM

Captain washed overboard...
What now?

We survived.

Share with us a mighty experience of awe and grace.

Available at Amazon

BAD experience in Savusavu, Fiji

My time here in Savusavu marina, Fiji has been shockingly bad. In 6 months, 9 boat breakins (2 of my neighbours). Filthy verbal abuse by disrespectful young fishermen diving at the boats made me fear rape. No support from the hierarchy. The wife of the local expat vet who seems to be running this marina, openly accused the yachts of being the problem. Yet, we learned this marina never did the goodwill thing with the local chiefs. And yes, not they or the police did anything about the burglary cases. It is a behind the hand bad mouthing case if you are in a click or not. And since I am a strong individual and seemingly the only one who will open my mouth (or rather put pen to paper to whom it may concern) regarding my rights of respect and services , I have been the target of no good. Therefore - my time here was spend alone and productively on Mylady. There is one expat here - Curly, from NZ ( http://curlycarswell.blogspot.com  please check out his site ), who is a big exception to the rule. And in his grey old age, he keeps soldiering on. He was, and still is, my reason for not running away from this unsafe, disgraceful place called Savusavu. A FALSE paradise, with rats, spiders, and mina bird infestation where you swim in your own sweat. Had we known, we would not have been here. Had we only known.

You will do other cruisers a favour if you spread the word about this or hang a print out on your notice board.  I'm now ten years on the water, but this time spent in Savusavu Marina has destroyed the beauty that was part of cruising. Nakama Creek from top to bottom is regularly a stinking, soiled with waste - disgrace. If not oil and diesel, then from household and farming. Not to mention the black snow that creeps into, and covers, everything.

Husband is back. I am so glad. He has a Pacific Ulcer which shocked the living daylights out of us. The private docter here is good and affordable. The wound which went down to the bone, is under control. We are working full speed to get MYLADY ready for leaving the South Pacific. 
The picture:  Sad but true - terror and suicide in paradise.

Storm with mv TEXEL

We all have chosen our jobs. Therefore no complaining. It is just that some jobs are very much influenced by the weather. Therefore gives an extra dimension to the job. How does the big ships handle the bigger seas? Motor vessel Texel from Kustvaart Harlingen, where Eelco currently earns our freedom chips, seems to handle it well.

SECURITY ISSUES in Savusavu and Marina

We've been here in Savusavu many times before. Liked the place so much and decided to stay the hurricane season on a mooring at Savusavu Marina. Our experience so far?

- 5 yacht burglaries - no cases resolved (one wrecked inside)
- indecent verbal assaults by disrespectful youths.
- aggressive black bird invasion
- all flour products have extra live material 
- rats
- local youths fiddling with the moorings
- discharge of pigs and human waste directly into creek
- some do-good people and others acting like  shareholders accuse yachts of being 'out of line'
- filth and empties passing regular from the shore to the sea.

I am completely disappointed, and feel very unsafe. 
Curly from Curly marina and a 'local' since 40 odd years, is the only one I've experienced that is horrified by this all.

mv Texel

  Freight arrived neatly packed. Both cranes of the ship needed to lift and move the parcel, With 3 of these valuable parcels mv Texel (Onego Merchant) set sail from USA to France. Since it's the holiday season they can go slow enough to miss the storms around them. 

Xmas 2014

MYLADY and crew are in SavuSavu, Fiji. Skipper is away skippering big ships. Seawife is tending to home chores. No not scrubbing the waterline, but chasing birds and rolling thumbs... (Really?). 
We wish for you a wonderful festive season. Thanks for visiting us from time to time. We do appreciate. My gift to you is the OCEAN SONG. Your gift to me is watching/listening it. Thanks. Be blessed.

NAIRAI and OVALAU in Fiji

Where on earth is NAIRAI ISLAND?  Well we didn't know until now. It happens to be in the vicinity of Koro Island, in Fiji. One can see the lights of Suva from there. Yet only one ferry in the month services the island and pretty expensive to ride. When the ferry arrives, the people of Tovulailai village jump in their longboats and take merchandise for transport to Suva and bring back shop supplies. We had a great time at Tovulailai. The dolphins guided us into the good sheltered bay. And the flying stingrays, slapped the water in a special welcome. I spread my maternal wings around Ana and in the process got skipper involved to do magic. Making one working sewing machine out of two old,

broken and useless machines.  I gave her a crash course on sewing and she's full of smiles. More machines appeared from no-where, asking some attention please.  We'll return to Tovulailai frequently in our memories.


OVALAU
We finally made it to Ovalau Island during our fourth visit to Fiji and thoroughly enjoyed the island and its people. The first capital of Fiji - Levuka - is now a world heritage site. The wind caught us

on the wrong side of the fish factory and made our first day a memorable stinking one. Apart from that the few old shops give an interesting atmosphere to the town. There is only a handful of people yet the town has a distinctive buzz. 

KORO ISLAND in FIJI

Hans and Dory

KORO Island is big and high and dominates the Koro Sea in the middle of Fiji. We had an interesting sail to there. Leaving Nasasobu Bay where we visited some local friends was perfect. Weather was calm. It was early in the morning and the forecast for 15knots easterlies. Just what we needed for our sail to Koro which was 48 miles away. Dolphins guided us through the pass and I made a very good movie of them. Soon out of the reef, the wind died away. Horrible seas and swell played havoc with us. I surrendered to seasickness and feeling bad while skipper was the top of madness which the seamans vocab couldn't make better. And then it happened. A gale of a blow. (the terrible swell and sea must have had a reason). 25-30 knots, with the wind abeam, with full sails, and with me down and out - not to interfere, skipper was gaining what time and speed we had lost earlier. An hour before sunset, skipper tacked her into the northwest bay of Koro Island. Another Pacific paradise - where we walked under the fern tree where snakes crawled over each other. We moved with haste away from danger. And everybody we show the film to, is in disbelief.

RABI ISLAND FIJI CIRCUMNAVIGATION

RABI ISLAND FIJI CIRCUMNAVIGATION

We visited the new Banaban Virgin Coconut Oil Factory at Nuku and found it very interesting. Spent a week in Elizabeth Cove where the king tides and coral reef made going ashore not at convenient hours. However, Ketike showed us the spring and that in itself was a safari to remember. At Fatima we attended the Roman Catholic song and dance contest which was absolutely wonderful. And then spent a night at Tabiang anchorage,which was good. The bio-fuel plant was not open when we wanted to visit it. This morning we left with moist air (drizzle) but had a great sail - full on - through the pass and back to Catherine Bay. Our circumnavigation of Ra[m]bi Island has been completed.

RABI ISLAND FIJI

RABI ISLAND FIJI

We left from Budd Reef to Ra[m]bi with good trade winds. It was a perfect sail. Good wind from a good direction, comfortable, sunny sky and short sleeve temperature. We even had a bite on our fishing line. (But he got away.) We sailed all the way around the top of the northern reef of Ra[m]bi and then followed the reef closely as we went down to Albert Cove. There are few things as beautiful as a reef on a sunny day, visible from a good angle, with poloroid sunglasses. Albert Cove is the traditional Pacific beauty - white beaches, waving palm trees and turquoise water.

SAILING BUDD REEF

SAILING BUDD REEF

video

We left for Budd Reef from Ra[m]bi with light winds. The reefs were good visible. But around the bottom-end of Ra[m]bi the bouncing currents and fluctuating winds made sailing a nightmare. In fact, we drifted in circles. We really should have just put the anchor down and waited. But we didn't, trusting that the wind will get firm in strength, which eventually it did. Just as we were out through the reef, a group of dolphins joined the ride across the Rabi Strait. It was hard to windward all the way. The reef at Budd Reef was not visible at all. Once inside, we had a good sail to School Bay, where we anchored for a couple of days. As the wind changed, we anchored in many bays around the islands of Budd Reef. We visited the Yanuca village and saw the meke twice. It was very good.

VISITING THE DATELINE

VISITING THE DATELINE

At Somosomo, on Taveuni, we anchored and went to town the next morning. Calm conditions. We took the taxi up the hill to the hospital where we waited in line for our turn to see the dentist. Fortunately it was a quiet day and just one lady patient infront of us. Skipper has lost a tooth filling the day before (probably due to some fresh coconut we ate which can be very hard), and we were lucky enough that Taveuni was a big island with medical facilities serving the communities of the many islands around it. The dental job went without fuss and was very afordable. Then it was time to play tourist again and we walked halfway down the steep hill, then accross a football field to get to the official 180 degrees meridian. And a few yards further, a complete tin shack church compound. It is one of those things that you know about and never think of since it's part of life. But standing physically with one foot in yesterday and with the other foot in today, came as a reality check about the amazing feats of the human race developement. Eelco has visited Greenwich in London many years ago and now also in the Southern Hemisphere. For him it was a completion of one event.

SAILING DIRECTIONS

We are in Fiji at the moment. After exploring some wonderful new bays and its people we sailed to Taveuni Island off the northeast of Vanua Levu, the northern big island. It was lovely weather - sunshine and a soft breeze. As soon as we were over the reef, the sails went up and we glided along in a seducing waltz. Our destination was just seven miles away and in view. Slowly but surely the tempo of the waltz decreased but we kept going. It was nice to be out 'sailing'. After lunch we had a look on our track and what do you know? We sailed at 1.2 knots backwards! The current in the strait was just so much more than the little wind there was. The old Volvo had to bring us where we wanted to be.

VOYAGE 2014 - water bombs

Left New Zealand with no wind. Storm. Damage. Change destination from British Columbia to South Africa. 30 kn winds all the time. Water bombs almost constantly. More damage. Arrive Fiji with no wind. 

WINDS OF CHANGE

End of May is a bit late in the season to start crossing the deep Southern Ocean on the long journey to British Columbia. But sometimes that's how it is. We cleared from New Zealand with clear skies and no wind. At the heads of Whangarei we drifted the whole day on mirror water. Large schools of fairy penguins were about and we watched them playing and hunting. I just love the sound they make. Sundown a thought of wind filled the sails lightly, sometimes. Came dawn the next morn, we could still see the coast. During day two, the winds became steady and MYLADY flew. All the work skipper has done on her underwatership is visible. Day three, lovely. By late afternoon the wind was gone. With suspicion skipper paraded in the cockpit, snifing the air. On the weather map we seemed to be borderliners - not belonging to any of the high or low pressure systems around us. Skipper decided we should stow the used spinnaker pole. Whilst on deck with this job the wind sprung up from another direction. Unbelievable but during a count of ten its force was a dissasterous 40 knots. I finished the job on deck while skipper went to try and steer MYLADY. Fortunately the genoa was furled away and the mainsail already with a double reef. Bounching seas shook us around in pouring rain. The boom came over in a crashing gype. Flew back and crash gype again, smashing its travel stops open and took the travelrunner with it, trailing all this valuables at the end of the main sheet in the sea next to the boat. We were both outside and in danger zone but thank God, were spared the feared, neck-braking hit. Forecasted only more headwinds, lows and blows. Recollecting ourselves afterwards in the cockpit we wondered how can we be like our friends Valhalla, contentedly pottering about? One answer is - go downwind - not against. We turned MYLADY on a new course - towards hopefully an easier life - and in search of a homeground where also we may potter around.

FLYING START

Due to some medical issues with skipper, our departure of New Zealand was postpone with a month. The month was used extensively for private last minute jobs. Even some of the long-term jobs were tackled. And I could get a couple of paintings done. The last Monday arrived. Doctor said Eelco was good to go. We cleared the deck and stowed all other bits of our lives in intriguing small spaces. Dinghy was strapped on deck and the alarms set for 5h30. It was a falling tide and we had to catch the bridge before the early morning traffic to the city started. We woke the next morning at 6h30. Our bridge opening was scheduled for 6h45. Skipper was up and dressed before I could say 'yes'. The hardly ever used motor roared into life. Firs the aft-line came in, then the bowline. With a hard push, off the pile mooring, MYLADY swung into clear water. We sped up the alley and with a tight u-turn around the red marker we started our chase down river to the bridge while calling on the VHF " Bridge control, we're coming!" As we rounded the last bend the bridge began to lift. It was 6h45. We made it. We sure had a flying start to our cruising season. Dawn became daylight. It was 4 degrees Celsius.

STORMS

We arrived back at MYLADY midst forecasted prolonged very wet weather. I raised against the odds to get all the big things washed and dried on the lines. Between squalls, skipper could finish up the underwater paint and other have-to's for our big splash. Very early in the morning during a dry spell, David and Kevin of the boatyard gently let MYLADY back into the water. How good to be floating again. And off we went, down river to the bay outside by the heads. There the sea and wind were not favourable so we dropped the hook next to the land-wall in an eddy out of the heavy current. It was a surprisingly comfortable 'uncharted' anchorage. 
When we heard 60 knots forecasted on the marine radio channel, with swell of up to 4 meters, we decided a nearby marina might be a more protected option. With haste we heaved anchor and motored back up-river for half-an-hour whilst the rain and wind increased. Pat and her husband took our lines and helped to settle us in Marsden Cove Marina. It blew and blew - the whole night through.  Our fenders got pushed out as MYLADY was squashed on her side to the pier. A jib on another boat ripped out and flapped like a turreting gun, to pieces.  Morning came and skipper put another line to shore to pull MYLADY off our pier. The storm intensified. According some locals, this was worse than the Lucy cyclone which came through about a month ago. Lunchtime weather improved to the point where we dared sticking our noses out from our covers. Today, a day later, we will leave once again for the bay at the heads to sail direction Great Barrier Island tomorrow.

Steering pedestal - refit on the go

Hello to you! No we didn't disappear of the face of the earth. We are just catching up with ourselves. Thanks for checking up on us. My trip to Texas visiting the children, was as good as I could have wished for. Eelco had enough time with mom in Holland after his duty of collecting freedom chips for us. And we both arrived back 'home' in New Zealand beginning of March. There were just sooooo many people at the airport going through customs. We almost missed our connecting bus to the town where our boat is. Running-running with luggage-loads bigger than ourselves, we made the bus with three minutes. Phew. In the midst of night we arrived at our dear MYLADY - home sweet home. 

Mylady is being loved and care for to no limits. Her owner scraped and scraped her bottom till she was clean and almost naked. Then he dressed her with layer upon layer of different qualities and colors of paint. She got a new coat on her hem above the waterline. If you listen good, you can hear her purr. Up and down he runs through her top shaking up the rigging and replacing with new. That the mast steps are showing signs of wear and tear, we shall not worry about now. Even her steering he did not forget. Never in thirty years, but this time for sure. Dug up from the deep dark, hidden below the pile of fenders and extra lines in the aft storage, came the steering rods and the what-have-you-nots. And this all started because the steering pedestal in the cockpit kept on naging about the salt corrosion creeping between it's base-rings. Skipper said solemnly, a bad foundation is no good, removed the steeringwheel, and forced the poor steering colom with brute force and seaman's vocabularly off its sealant-glued-fixture-base in the centre cockpit. Some time passed. At the moment he ever so gently sands and paints and carries that same heavyweight pededstal like a baby up and down the many steps of the very high and narrow ladder, refitting it proudly on its important place.  

Now that our hard earned freedom chips have been used up in a good way on good MYLADY, we are going to take a break for a few days to experience some more of New Zealand. On our return, we splash asap, go for a test sail and then leave for British Columbia.

GALES

EELCO'S BAD LUCK WEATHER VOYAGE ON mvAvalon

What initially seemed a simple trip down south turned out in a trip with in the first part gale after gale after

even a stronger gale and shortage of fuel . It was unbelievable how much bad weather we had from the start. Half a day after we left Skutskear, Sweden, we had our first good gale . So our Christmas celebration had to be delayed for a day till the gale tamed a little. We went over the top from Denmark at Skagen . There we made our first bunker-stop . We dropped anchor behind a small island to have some lee from the full blowing gale, but the bunkering went on . A bunker ship same size like ours came alongside and by means of a hose connection we bunkered 60 Cubic meter gasoil . Just before we left and once past the top we had our first North Sea gale but it was not too bad because the wind was southerly so we had some lee from the shore . The middle part from our North Sea crossing went fine . But while we came near the Dutch coast we had one gale after the other. It did not stop anymore. Looking at any weather chart made me and everyone else depressed. This weather with gale after gale continued one day after the other and of course we made not much progress down south at all but the gauge from the fuel tanks went steadily down . Near Chergourgh there was a gale with force 10 Bft coming so it was time to look for shelter what we did by mean of dropping anchor in the anchorage of Baie Du Seine . There we stayed 5 day's . The anchorage was full and even very big containers vessels were waiting for better weather . On Tuesday the wind went down . That morning we went to Le Havre in order to bunker again and to get some provisions on board. The bunkering took the whole afternoon and by evening time we were underway to Turkey again and up till now it is a good and normal trip .

TRASH FREIGHT

WASTE and SALT

Household waste is burned in Delfzijl Holland, to produce electricity. In Cork we were moored in the middle of the city. The first pub was in close proximity of the accommodation of the ship - what a shame??? – had to go and invest. The loading of the waste took 1.5 days. We took this cargo to Delfzijl in the north-east of the Netherlands. Discharging of the waste took 2 days of 24 hours nonstop.

After that was out we had to clean the hold very good in order to get the smell of the waste out. In Delfzijl we also had to load again, this time

3300 mt of salt in bulk. And according the information I got from my company we had to load "wet "salt. Which meant we did not had to stop loading while it was raining. Good. On Sunday we shifted from our original berth to the loading jetty of AKZO NOBEL, the salt company. Once alongside there we started to take our ballast out, to make way for the cargo, which took a few hours. Only then a man from AKZO came onboard to have a look at the holds and said "sorry, you first have to paint the sides of the hold as now it's not good enough". So we started straight away but halfway through the day they told us to move away because

they needed to load another ship at that jetty. But in order to move we first had to ballast the ship again what took 5 hours! Only then could we move to a waiting berth. This was in the evening and the next morning – the paint job was done and dry – we moved back to the jetty and after some of the ballast was out again, we started to load the salt. The rate of loading was approximately 700 mt / hour so that went fast. Six o'clock that night the last of our ropes were free and we underway to Stockvik in Sweden. This trip went by the Kieler Kanaal again and took us 4 days. Once empty in Stockvik – after one and a half day – we sailed 110 nautical mile south along the Swedish coast to Skutskaer and there we loaded a full load – 3500 mt – of woodpulp for two harbours in the Sea of Marmara in Turkey. 

LA ROCHELLE france

CHAPTER 4 OF EELCO'S JOB ON mv Avalon

This time I walked from La Pallice to La Rochelle and back what took me 45 min each way. But before I went to La Rochelle I visited the local market in La Pallice what was a nice one with all kinds off stuff and food for sale. In the second world war La Pallice was a big U boat base . The bunkers where those U boats were moored are

still there . They can not be removed simply because they are to massive . We were just moored in front of them.

La Rochelle was wonderful too and I spent a few hours walking trough the narrow old

streets and the area around the old harbor. Once the ship was empty on Tuesday we sailed for Cork in Ireland to load a full load of "Waste in Bales "Yes, regular household waste.