PORT ELIZABETH

Port Elizabeth, about halfway between Cape Town and Durban on the south coast of Africa: a friendly people.

They were right there on the jetty to take our lines and welcomed us. Our every wish was no problem. Facilities at the marina and yacht club were clean and good. The yacht club restaurant was packed every day. It was clear that foreigh yachts don't make landfall in Port Elizabeth. Customs were initially confused but we did get our stamps eventually. PE is big and the yacht club far from town. King Cab Taxis were the best. Good rates, good cars, good

service. Waiting times were correct and their drivers knowledgable and helpful. With such a King Cab Taxi we made a tour through the old and new Port Elizabeth and learned a lot. We spent lots of time and money running around to refill the cooking gas. 

And then the wind turned Southeast. Twentyfours hours later we discovered with shock and dismay a fine oily black dust covering the whole boat inside out. Where one touched or walked you left a track. The walls, ropes, inside drawers, under the spreaders and solars, up one's nostrils - absolutely everything was dusted black. Big bulk carriers were loading magnesium oar in the southeast corner of the harbour. Needless to say, we left PE that evening. 

This report was written a month later (and published even yet a month later) and even though we have been springcleaning the boat ever since and in a thorough way never done or needed before, we are still discovering black magnesium dust every day.