Tuesday, December 4, 2018

St.Helena Island

St. Helena rose from out of the fog and overcasted day slowly but surely. It kept on rising. Not to be missed. Sheer, barren, very high and steep rock cliffs facing bravely towards sea, warding off any unwelcome intruders. We chased into the harbour on the whim of a 45 knot bullet. When we were finally safely moored we enjoyed the redbill tropicbirds with their long tails parading in a dance on the drafts off the cliffs at the green waterfall below Ladder Hill.

St. Helena is harsh and barren outside and green and lush on the inside. It was foggy and raining almost every day we were there (nov'18). But temperatures were comfortable and warm. The mooring is strong and solid. A water ferry is used to get ashore since there is no beach or anything for landing a dinghy. At the landing one get off and on with the help of a jungle rope with knot which you grab and use as an extra arm. Naturally - jumping at the right time. The ferry-drivers are very good. Calm and at ease and tell one what to do. We rode out a three day swell into the harbour. It was very rough.

Formalities were easy going. To avoid you doing the up-and-down and up-and-down the hill we did, I'll give you the 1,2,3 of how to. First customs at the wharf. Then the bank to get money. There is no ATM on the island and credit cards when possible to use, more troublesome than worth it. Then buy travel-insurance which stipulate the evacuation. Then to the police station way up the hill by the big tree where one is directed to immigration. And with your travel-insurance immigration will stamp you in. Welcome to St. Helena. It is like the islands yet it's not. It's actually very English. There's about 4000 people and everybody greets everybody everywhere. Nobody walks with his nose in the cell phone. The streets are only one car wide and there is no natural level ground anywhere. Driving is considerate and give way. There are more than 5000 cars on the island. Internet is expensive and the wifi can only be used in the area where you bought it. Thus, no good out at the boat. Most everything is imported therefore has a price tag on it.

We made a day tour around the island with Robert. He is very knowledgeable. High Knoll Fort could have been my castle, rabbits and all. I loved it. Poor old Jonathan the tortoise was very old and quiet (187 years). What surprised me most was how Napoleon Bonaparte who was in exile here for the last five years of his life, was treated as royalty.

I'm glad we came to St. Helena. It was the first time in a long time that I did not felt the need to watch over my shoulder if we're safe. Where there are plenty benches along the streets for people to sit down, rest, enjoy the view and visit. Where smiles were exchanged easily. To top our visit, a big manta ray swam circles around our boat the morning of the day we left.