Luderitz

Luderitz is a natural safe harbour along the desolate and uninviting coastline of Namibia, on the southwest coast of Africa. A place where the wind blows one away. A cluster of civilization in the desert. Where the wind carriers the sand over the rail and road. The historical hub of the diamond. With a bygone era which still amazes. And where small and big diamond boats actively persue the big shine. Diamonds are after all still the highest producer of income for Namibia.

The port of Luderitz is quite active and big container ships, and tankers visit frequently. Large international cargo carriers come in on a regular basis to load mining oar to be shipped worldwide. And the fishing fleet supplying the five fish factories in Luderitz, come and go on a twentyfour-seven basis. The two tugboats are very capable of good maneuvering of the big ships in harbour. Our mooring was next to the working channel and we got the frontrow view everytime.

Luderitz and surrounds are lucky if they get any rainfall in the year. Normally it is stone-dry and the sea-mist is sufficient to keep the desert-life going.
The town is small and most everything in walking distance. Luderitz Spar (a grocery shop) should be watched for wrong pricing. We got hooked a few times. There's a daily sail to the penguine colony on Halifax Island for tourists. Dolphins, jackass penguines and seals regularly come into the harbour. Not to mention all the seabirds especially when small fish or mud shrimp were plentiful. The desert surrounding Luderitz is a combination of rock and sand and totally beautiful (if you miss the sandstorms).

We stayed there four months on a mooring of Heiko (++264 81 604 2805) and had all types of weather and wind. It was a very productive time for boat maintenance. And Mylady was covered inside outside to the top of the mast with fine sanddust. Fortunately a good shake or wash down gets it out.

true or false ?

Good or bad ?
The word pollution has become a stick to hit and control the world. We all believe for the better of the world. That's why we accept it. On the ship was a crewmember who got a haircut during his off hours. Doing the good thing of not polluting the ocean, he put the hair- cuttings in an empty plastic container that was trashed. And afterwards the filled plastic container went back in the plastic trash. We all agree; the answer is, 'good'.

True or false ?
Not a single thing may go over the side of a ship these days. Everything (oils or trash) is separated and a register has to be kept to have control by any and all countries and harbours the ship visits. Seperation and control are very strict.
Marpol (marine police) came on board in Nigeria. Dug out the trash and thoroughly combed through it. Triumphantly a trophy was lifted out - the plastic container with hair. "How could you allow this, captain?"  The ship got an unreasonable hefty fine. After hours of nagging and threats from the officials, the fine was discounted with sigarettes and alcohol.
After the issue was paid and settled, captain asked the Marpol official:
In what category did the hair had to go?  Answer: overboard.
True or false ?  TRUE.

piracy West Africa

Close Call with pirates

  9Feb
  A lot of buzz and activity filled the VHF channels. In stones throw distance from our scheduled meeting point with the guard boat which would escort us through pirate alley into harbour, the gb (guard boat) advised us with great urgency to turn around immediately and run for shelter to another nearby gb because right in front of us was a pirate attack happening. Naturally we made a speedy u-turn and made a beeline to safety where we waited with apprehension.

 About an hour later our guard boat gave an all clear signal and we proceeded to harbour with them on our side without any trouble. They were efficient and gave good advise. It is a great help to have effective escourt in pirate alley.
 For us it was a close call. But for 4 crew members of the attacked vessel the nightmare of being hostage started.

Travels

We are travelling again in beautiful South Africa. When one experience the beauty, the bad and sad stuff seem so far away. 
Picture overview of Franshoek valley in the Cape Province.

UAL TEXAS underway to Ghana

Skipper is on his way with the mv UAL TEXAS to Takoradi in Ghana, West Africa. The trip started in Houston Texas and they battled heavy seas and large swell crossing the Atlantic. Now in the lee of the African continent, they can pick-up speed again. I can follow him on marinetraffic.com

2016 update

2016 has been an interesting year. No, we didn't sail even one mile...... sad but true. Mylady arrived December 2015 in South Africa. We rested in Knysna over Christmas and then sped around the Cape of Good Hope to Port Owen on the southwest coast of South Africa. Here in the marina which is quite a distance upriver on the great Berg River, Mylady is safe from any heavy seas or swell. Yet close enough to sea, to freeze (not truly - just very cold) when the wind turns and comes onshore across the cold Benguala of the Atlantic.

Therefore we're not complaining. We have cold, cool, warm, hot, mist weather, all in the span of one week, and then over again.  Sea is half hour walk from the boat. We go there often.

            We have been hard at work - travelling. Eelco earned some freedom chips for us around western Europe. Mi-sA-le joined him for a few weeks. We alse spent time with mom in Netherland and explored some of Holland. Mi-sA-le then went to visit her son in Texas USA and also her son in Cape Town. The time back on Mylady we enjoyed and happily groomed the boat, ticking-off the jobs to-do list which only grows.

             We went on a flower safari for a month in Namaqua land. It was beautiful, stormy, wet, cold, interesting. We made a roadtrip through the southwest part of Namibia. It took us two months. The land and desert were as always, soul-charge beautiful and amazing. When out on the water I colour in my mind the blue around me with browns, beige and greens - then I have the Namib right there at sea. While travelling through the Namib, I coloured in my head the black and browns of the landscape with hues of blue - and it is truelly just asif we're at sea. Mind boggling. Even Eelco agreed. The roadtrip was hot and dusty. Birdlife quantity and variety was astounding. Game sighting along the roads were plentiful. But I dare say not 10% of the dust kicking cars flying by saw the well camo-ed animals.

             At the moment we are spending time in Jonkershoek Nature reserve area between the massive peaks and cliffs of the ... mountains. (Have you watched my JONKERSHOEK movie yet?) Then its off to Cape Town for some visa paperwork. Then on toward Pretoria for Christmas with the family and in the New Year we start with freedom chips and overseas trips again. As you can tell - we are well. 

              Wishing you all the best and hope to hear from you soon. 

   Eelco  and Mi-sá-lê -  blessed & happy  

Road trip Namibia

After the haulout, we scurried with half of everthing inside Mylady, to the old VWJetta and started our selfdrive road trip to Namibia, camping along the way. We had detailed, good info from the stgcnam consultant in the planning stage and  underway.
          Ai-Ais hotspring to which I was so looking forward to, was a very big disappointment. A troop of baboons reigned and spread disaster. Some of the facilities were noticeably improved outside but the inside was unkept, dirty and worn. Even in the spa the tiles were broken off, the water temperature either boiling or cold, and the massage jets not working.
The viewpoint of the Fishriver Canyon at Hobas was fantastic. As was the camping facilities. Very dusty powder soil though.
Gravel ROADS in Namibia is a disaster for any sedan car. All the roads servicing the tourist destinations are over-used and the roadbed destroyed by corrigation, making grating it not very helpful.
Luderits was very enjoyable. We had perfect weather. Stayed at the oldest building -signal tower. And enjoyed a marvellous trip out to the islands with Zeepaard Boat tours. 
Aubures - west of Helmeringshausen was very good. We were guided to ancient Bushmen rock paintings - fascinating! The view accross the valley refreshed the soul everytime you laid eyes on it. Hot - dry - rocky - yet grippingly beautiful.
We enjoyed the immense beauty along the C27 road passed Wolwedans. On the spur of the moment we bypassed Sesriem with its maze of accommodation and stopped at Weltevrede. 
From there we made speed to Windhoek, bundu bashing over the D1261, Remshoogte pass.
         Windhoek Mediclinic operates like Africa - spent two nights there.
Urban camp.net was a super great experience. Very central to downtown Windhoek and five minutes walk to Joe's Beer House. The staff at Urban were very helpful, friendly and accommodating.
Next stop was Spitzkoppe. An impressive place with its overpowering boulders and curios rock rabbits. 
We had lunch in Hentiesbay and stayed in Swakopmund. The dunes gave us an excellent and exhausting experience.  It was freezing cold, windy and wet ! And we chose to return to the blazing hot Spitzkoppe. 
In Gross Barmen we relaxed. The hot inside pool was not clean, the floortiles in all the pools were dangerously slippery. To top it all - around twelve noon all electricity went off! In pitch dark we had to find our way with hands and the occasional faintest of cellphone light back to our clothes. And no discount was offered for this inconvenience. Daan Viljoen Game Reserve just outside Windhoek on the other hand was a super experience.
From there it was south again. We slept between the quiver trees 20km north of Keetmanshoop at /Garas. And continued to Amanzi at the Orange River. Amanzi was good, but for us very unpleasant when students noised loudly through the night, making sleep a disaster. We cancelled the rest of our booking and left.
The last stop of this trip was Modderfontein 8km west of Springbok in South Africa where we also started this trip. First time round our air mattrass failed. Second time round we brought back the borrowed matras.
Back home on sailboat Mylady here in Port Owen, it is suprisingly
windy and cold. With time I will update this post with a lot of links.  

South Africa - KLEIN KAROO

We rented a car and travelled the Klein Karoo in South Africa. It was more than beautiful and truely a place where there is space for the mind. Please come along on our ride through the KLEIN KAROO.

SAILING THE AFRICAN COAST

Summarizing SAILING THE AFRICAN COAST with sv MYLADY.
Mozambique - we knew of sailboats doing the same crossing however, did not see any. Couple of fishing boats. Couple of big ships. Short cycled heavy cold fronts continuously. Real bad anchoring experience in changing for worse conditions with no good alternatives. Skipper got his finger chopped in the gypsy.
Richards Bay area - a couple of big ships going Indonesia direction.
Durban - Killer gale.
Between Durban and East Londen lots of big ship traffic both ways.
Agulhas current - formidable - running east to west. Close to coast was counter current and Bird Island took forever to get passed in the light winds. few whales. lots of comfort containers motoring past in lovely sailing weather. Plenty Cape Gannets around.
PE permission from harbour master to enter. Big entrance. Unfamiliar with clearing customs for pleasure craft. Visiting cruise ships. Bulk carriers loading magnesium oar (black dust covers everything). According local info the industrial harbour activities will be moved to the east side of Algoa Bay a good distance away, projected time 10 years. Plenty fishing boat activity close to PE. 'flight plan' an issue on leaving. Flight plan non-existing in Knysna or Port Owen.
Knysna - thick fog. tricky entrance. Keep to the leading line (very close to the westerly head.) Strong current in channel. Good holding in sandy-mud. VERY healthy water. Growth on the anchor chain, almost impossible to remove, after only two weeks on anchor. Play garden of all speed boats that do not keep to their designated area. Many regularly zig-zag full power between the yachts on anchor. Out going tide makes big breakers on both inner and outer bank at the heads.
Cape Agulhas - 5 knts E. big ship traffic (5 ships in 24 hrs) 2 heading for Mosselbay. Visibility on water clear. Coastline hazy. Good internet reception 12 miles off coast (vodacom). Fascinating beautiful sea-glow at night caused by plenty fish activity in fhosphorus water.
False Bay - fog clouds and veldfire smoke covered the mountains and shoreline. We passed in light winds.
Cape Point / Cape of good hope - 25 knots southerly. Hefty seas (for us from behind). Good going. Many shore lights and beacons. Had a near hit/mis with unlit sailboat.
Cape Town - Many big ship traffic
Atlantic ocean - plenty whales, solitary and moving, also group activity. Cold Benguela current. Thick and heavy, blinding fog. Shocking cold. Lots of seals.
St. Helena Bay - Stompneus Bay lovely to rest. Anchor stuck behind rocks. Millions of black cormarants parading the horizon just above the waves.
Port Owen - Plenty real big fishing boats alongside Laaiplek in the river. We were piloted up-river by marina manager. Quiet secure waters in Port Owen Marina. Tidal river flood banks teaming with birdlife. Relaxed atmosphere. Lively Port Owen Yacht Club organizing sailing races and activities and weekly suppers and social. A great place to rest for a while.

SOUTH AFRICA Knysna

We approached Knysna on the Garden Route at the south coast of South Africa in thick fog, the first week in December. It lifted and densified alternately. We were waiting for the tide to rise and therefore at peace standing off and lining up with the leading lights from a way-out distance. A local adventure ridged inflatable came to us on their way back to Knysna with, "Welcome to Knysna. It's your first time here? The heads are calm today, you don't have to wait for the high tide." He greeted goodbye and disappeared between the waves and swell at the heads. I swallowed. We concentrated hard. The front white light of the leading lights were difficult to keep and eye on between all the other buildings. The rocks of the western head were too close for comfort and the waves and swell teamed up to pull and push us out of the line of safe entry. And the known troublesome rock in the middle of the entrance was submerged and unmarked, with different identifications from different sources. By all qualifications not an easy-on-my-heart entry. As always the relieve comes sudden when one realizes the major obstacles are passed.

Not being able to see good colour of the shallow water, we pottered in one bend when a local dinghy came to us pointing where the deeper water channel runs and we finally spotted a buoy for direction. After half an hour motoring and almost running aground on the sandbank close to the yacht club, a local boatowner led the way in his dinghy to a safe anchoring spot. We put the anchor down and didn't move it again. The current is strong in the main channel and Mylady, one of only three deep keel monohulls in catamaran valley, swung all over the place. During springtide low it was a bit shocking to see how big and close the sand islands then exposed, were.
The yacht club people were friendly and helpful. Anchoring is free. Temporary membership at the yacht club was R110- a week for a couple. The showers tall enough for Eelco and lovely hot. After New Zealand where one has to pay extra to use the showers this is nice to may use enough water for an enjoyable shower.
Knysna town is beautiful as seen from the water. There are three big shopping malls and all other shops and services one may require, available. Restaurants galore. The Timber Village has beautiful wood carved statues on display at the waterfront. And even more fascinating things and furniture at their village. We met Bryan who makes kites at Knysna Kites and we enjoyed exotic and exquisite tastes from That Platter Guy at the Friday afternoon market of the Montosouri school where local Knysna comes out for a good eat and social. We still savoured some of his salmon pate, gorgonzola, and ginger with peppadew cream cheese as we sailed passed Cape Agulhas. It was time for us to leave Knysna Lagoon with all the speedboats chasing around so inconsiderate of the anchored yachts.

The GIFT of Knysna

We are resting in Knysna on the south coast of South Africa. We had a lovely tour through the Little Karoo (writing coming later) and are now having a stall in 

the GIFT OF KNYSNA 
event in Knysna on 

the Garden Route of South Africa. We will take part till 23 December from 9h00-18h00. Meeting all the local artists is a delight. And our story intrigues many.

SAILMAIL FAILED

We were 18 days on Indian Ocean passage without contact to weather info or any other people. 

World wide coverage by Sailmail is not true. 

There is just one Africa station and it does not function properly.  

NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA is a land of vast contrast and beauty. Animals are but a part of it. All land is privately owned apart from a few “parks” the government own. To see wild animals in “regular” life, you should book accommodation with a game farm. There is plenty guest, game and hunting farms all over the country. That means they are registered to cater to a certain level for tourists. Mostly not camping but ask is for free. One of the main activities (attractions) offered normally, is a game drive. The farmer knows best what game he has on his property and where to find them. These animals are in natural habitat and are wild. As such you will also be involved in regular farming. However, on game farms, which have a game fence around, meaning the animals can not leave the property, you have a greater chance to see a lot of regular and imported game. If the area is too small, one get to see the animals but in a zoo-like atmosphere. The next problem to keep in mind wherever you go is the natural vegetation, high bush. Even though the animals are present, it is not always easy to spot them due to the bush-cover they have.
In Etosha National Game Park, you will definitely have a fine and unique experience. Up North, in the Caprivi, you should camp at Bumhill campsite. It will certainly give you a wonderful “African safari” feeling with the hippo’s in the background.
Have to: Sossosvlei close to Sesriem in the Namib Naukloof Park. It is a nature reserve of mainly the sand dunes. The camp is just in front of the gate. You have to go into the park the moment the gate open (it will still be dark) in order to experience day break and sunrise in the dunes. The magic of God’s paintbrush is unreal. There are desert animals, oryx, springbuck, ostrich etc around. You have to be out of the park by sunset. If I had 3 months I would definitely spend 5 –7 days here. Going through the Namib Desert to the coast via the Spreetshoogte pass is very interesting and give different views of the country. If you pass one car in the day, you may be lucky. If you encounter five cars it is very busy. Roads are mainly gravel and more than often going slow is extremely wise.
The Namib Desert is unique. Don’t miss the moonscape just outside of Swakopmund. Try to do all the roads in the park. The road over the Boshua pass back to Windhoek is very steep. Better maybe to do it from Windhoek to the coast.
Everywhere it is relatively safe. Thieving (which is a common and group practice) is mostly confined to the big towns. Tourists are definitely a soft target; try not to look like one. Cover all valuables and put it out of sight, where ever in the country you are, like under the seat or in the boot of the car. And  ALWAYS lock your car.
Sleeping next to the road has a 50% change of turning into a disaster.
Snakes and scorpions and bees and some creatures are poisonous, therefore dangerous. Fact is, 50% is poisonous but 99,9% they will disappear when you approach. It is good to wear boots when you walk in the dark; most of the bad stuff comes from the bottom and moves with the cover of night. Do not encourage ‘familiarization’ with the wild animals (like baboons, jackals, mongooses,) even if they so cutely come to you, especially in the parks. They are dangerous and could damage your camp, steel all your food, or hurt yourselves – they are carriers of diseases.
A reliable four wheel drive is the only thing that will open the most of the country to you. Kaokoland with the Ovahimba’s in the north-west is a very big, desolate, forlorn, no-road, beautiful area. I qualify it as dangerous - travel wise - and would advise not to do it. If you want to do it, do it with a local outfitter or with some other local travelers. The pros’ do not outweigh the cons’ if I should choose for you. Similar beauty you will experience on the Namib Desert roads. You can try to include Twyfelfontein – Ais – on the way to or from Hentiesbay and Cape cross - Etosha. It is representative of Kaokoland.
Our trip driving from South Africa, one month, 4 persons, Cost in 2005: N$ 30000-00 low budget (camping and no luxuries).:
International SE Border : Rietfontein - Kalahari dessert: – aroab – Koes – Gochas
South : – Mariental – Hardap dam – Maltahohe Sossosvlei: – Sesriem
Namib border and highlands: – Solitaire – Spreetshoogte pass to Windhoek but at the Gamsberg road crossing you go to Walvisbay over the Gamsberg pass and through the Namib dessert.
Coast: Walvisbay - Swakopmund – to Windhoek via the Dessert. – Bloedkoppie etc – Boshua pass
Windhoek - Otjiwarongo – Outjo –
Etosha National Park: Okakuejo – Halali – Namutoni - Tsumeb – Grootfontein – Okavango: Rundu – Popa falls
Caprivi: – Bumhill – Lianshulu – Katima Mulilo – Border: Ngoma through Botswana back to South Africa.
Fenata is an umbrella association for tourism association in the private sector. They will give info of whom to contact:
e-m: fenata@mweb.com.na (car rentals, accommodation etc)
The website: www.holidaytravel.com.na will give extreme good info with regard to Namibia.
In the event you can stop in Luderits, see Kolmanskop (a diamond mining town taken in by the sand) and the wild horses of the Namib. From there one can go up to Aus where it occasionally snow in Aug – Sept and then on to Sesriem. It is fascinating, desolate country.
The islands off the coast are small and rocky.
Looking forward to hear from you with more questions: mysaillady@yahoo.com