piracy West Africa

Close Call with pirates

  9Feb
  A lot of buzz and activity filled the VHF channels. In stones throw distance from our scheduled meeting point with the guard boat which would escort us through pirate alley into harbour, the gb (guard boat) advised us with great urgency to turn around immediately and run for shelter to another nearby gb because right in front of us was a pirate attack happening. Naturally we made a speedy u-turn and made a beeline to safety where we waited with apprehension.

 About an hour later our guard boat gave an all clear signal and we proceeded to harbour with them on our side without any trouble. They were efficient and gave good advise. It is a great help to have effective escourt in pirate alley.
 For us it was a close call. But for 4 crew members of the attacked vessel the nightmare of being hostage started.

freedom-chips

Once again Eelco is earning our freedom-chips along the westcoast of Africa and into the heart of pirateland - the gulf of Guinea. Hopefully time will fly.

"Persistent Danger in the Gulf of Guinea
In 2017, there were 36 reported incidents with no vessels hijacked in the Gulf of Guinea and 10 incidents of kidnapping involving 65 crewmembers in or around Nigerian waters. Globally 16 vessels reported being fired upon – including 7 in the Gulf of Guinea.
'Although the number of attacks is down this year in comparison with last year, the Gulf of Guinea and the waters around Nigeria remain a threat to seafarers. ' said Pottengal Mukundan, Director of IMB.http://www.swzonline.nl/news/8925/maritime-piracy-and-armed-robbery-reach-22-year-low

10Jan2018
  Owners lost contact with their tanker which were at anchor at Cotonou, Benin. They informed the authorities. Both the Nigerian and Benin navy searched. 16jan the owners reported the ship arrived intact in Lagos. The crew successfully negotiated with the hijackers.

PIRACY AND CORRUPTION

Maffia - corruption - piracy - all bad words and unfortunately all applicable to Nigeria. If they're willing to pay the price, cargo vessels can be escorted fore and aft by gunboats. Piracy is an age-old trade and gunning them down, part of daily life it seems. Normal protection is just one highspeed vessel to accompany the convoy of cargo vessels in and out of the seaport Onne, which is just south of  Port Harcourt in Nigeria. There is a certain area in the delta where no police or navy control is done. Therefore the area is used for pirate-trade.  Eelco's ship left Nigerian waters again under surveilance. It is though on the high seas out of the high risk area (and protection), that the pirates are active.  Pirates are one thing, but it's the corruption applied in maffia manner by the officials on all levels which leaves the bitter taste. 

Madagascar

We surfed to the north cape of Madagscar with 35kn. The counter current on the west side of Madagascar immediately introduced itself. Our average speed of 5 - 6 knots declined in ten counts to 2 knots. It is the oddest feeling to come to such a quick 'stand stil' after 24 days of full-on sailing. The Southeaster peaked at 45kn and helped us on beams-end over white waters to Nose Hara. Finally – rest. Nose Hara is a fascinating island with very interesting rock formations and landscape. It is very impressive and we enjoyed our rest there where we could air out the boat after the long ocean voyage.
         On towards Nosy Mitsio and we got acquited with the tremendous variable currents and wind directions in the space of one day. It must have been the most frustrating day skipper has yet experienced.

We arrived in Hellville, Nose Be, mid morning. And were almost immediately greeted and welcomed by Kool, who in partnership with Jimmy, take care of the dinghies for a fee. The quay has no facilities for dinghies and the port is over crowded with local boats and ferries all day long. Thus, it was real handy to have Kool and Jimmy there for help. Jimmy speaks English and went with us for the clearing in procedures, for a fee. If you speak french, you might be able to have the bribes pass you by. If you don't, like we, you're bound to pay all the bribes. Which ofcourse you expect at the time, but are unable to voice a stand-off.

Nosi Mamoko was our first experience of village life. The lady chief (who arrived long after us) was a proper b...t.. Honestly the worst experience of 'local' we have yet had in any country. Our initial good feelings she wiped clean with her unfriendly, demanding, un-accommodating attitude. We had no reason to stay in her village where filth abound and lemurs are sick looking, therefore left.

Russian Bay was super good. Andre's Restaurant was a delight.

Value for money. Hearty meals (ordered before). Good tasting Madagascar beer -  English style - and locally produced good rice wine and all kinds of interesting things, like good and happy looking lemurs. Fresh baked bread can be ordered – which we did more than once. Andreas is actually a wealth of information. We made a tour with Paul over the mountains and were very happy with the care he took and the local knowledge he could share with us in English. Again – value for money. Watch out for Polene(sp?). Confirm with Andre's who's the good and who's the bad guys. One day and night a tent safari pitched camp under the palms on the beach front. The tour guide, Ravo, made a good impression when we met on shore. It reminded me of catered safaris we did in Namibia. We sailed twice to Russian Bay and

stayed fourteen days total even though we only planned two days. Snorkeling was good. Schools of fish stayed happily around our boat. Russian Bay was good.

The Honey River had no honey but the school was very happy with the English / Malagasy dictionary we gave them. No-where did we had security issues yet, but everywhere alertness is high. The people in general are friendly. 

SAILMAIL FAILED

We were 18 days on Indian Ocean passage without contact to weather info or any other people. 

World wide coverage by Sailmail is not true. 

There is just one Africa station and it does not function properly.  

CRUISING SECURITY ALERT for Australia, Queensland.

The following I presume could be encountered anywhere where there are plenty yachts. But this happened to us on the Queensland coast.
* aggresive yacht attack on Mylady sailboat.
* un-manned yachts under full sail and motor.
The alarm went at 5:30am and the anchor was on deck at 6:00am. While skipper was still securing the anchor, I steered Mylady out to sea. We noticed the only other yacht in the bay at North Palm Island, at the far opposite side, who came in late afternoon the previous day, also have navigation lights on. We were moving opposite directions. I turned back to the bay to pass them red to red. But they turned also inside. I turned more to not be misunderstood, but so did they. Deciding if they want to pass us on the shore side I'll go to sea. Making an almost 90 degree I headed out to sea. But they turned with us. Confused I asked skipper am I reading the lights right? He turned around and ordered 'Give gas!' The lights (boat) was concerningly close. We sped away. But they followed at high speed. Skipper took the wheel and after a short full rev run, stopped the boat. The aggresive yacht who reved up with us, made a sharp turn to the south and passed our stern at arms length. 'IDIOTS! skipper shouted'. The yacht motored away as the day was breaking. 
The unmanned yacht we encountered earlier going to Airlie Beach. We were sailing on a strong southeasterly, hard to windward, the last leg to Airlie Beach. A big yacht under full sail came out from Airlie Beach heading our way. Since we were on a concerned course, we kept a close eye on it. We soon realized he was motoring but not a person in sight. In all the time that we passed him and afterwards till he was out of sight, no human was visible. It left an eerie feeling to know at full speed in very changeable weather, their are yachts with NO LOOKOUT.
Read about other travellers...

BAD experience in Savusavu, Fiji

My time here in Savusavu marina, Fiji has been shockingly bad. In 6 months, 9 boat breakins (2 of my neighbours). Filthy verbal abuse by disrespectful young fishermen diving at the boats made me fear rape. No support from the hierarchy. The wife of the local expat vet who seems to be running this marina, openly accused the yachts of being the problem. Yet, we learned this marina never did the goodwill thing with the local chiefs. And yes, not they or the police did anything about the burglary cases. It is a behind the hand bad mouthing case if you are in a click or not. And since I am a strong individual and seemingly the only one who will open my mouth (or rather put pen to paper to whom it may concern) regarding my rights of respect and services , I have been the target of no good. Therefore - my time here was spend alone and productively on Mylady. There is one expat here - Curly, from NZ ( http://curlycarswell.blogspot.com  please check out his site ), who is a big exception to the rule. And in his grey old age, he keeps soldiering on. He was, and still is, my reason for not running away from this unsafe, disgraceful place called Savusavu. A FALSE paradise, with rats, spiders, and mina bird infestation where you swim in your own sweat. Had we known, we would not have been here. Had we only known.

You will do other cruisers a favour if you spread the word about this or hang a print out on your notice board.  I'm now ten years on the water, but this time spent in Savusavu Marina has destroyed the beauty that was part of cruising. Nakama Creek from top to bottom is regularly a stinking, soiled with waste - disgrace. If not oil and diesel, then from household and farming. Not to mention the black snow that creeps into, and covers, everything.

Husband is back. I am so glad. He has a Pacific Ulcer which shocked the living daylights out of us. The private docter here is good and affordable. The wound which went down to the bone, is under control. We are working full speed to get MYLADY ready for leaving the South Pacific. 
The picture:  Sad but true - terror and suicide in paradise.

SECURITY ISSUES in Savusavu and Marina

We've been here in Savusavu many times before. Liked the place so much and decided to stay the hurricane season on a mooring at Savusavu Marina. Our experience so far?

- 5 yacht burglaries - no cases resolved (one wrecked inside)
- indecent verbal assaults by disrespectful youths.
- aggressive black bird invasion
- all flour products have extra live material 
- rats
- local youths fiddling with the moorings
- discharge of pigs and human waste directly into creek
- some do-good people and others acting like  shareholders accuse yachts of being 'out of line'
- filth and empties passing regular from the shore to the sea.

I am completely disappointed, and feel very unsafe. 
Curly from Curly marina and a 'local' since 40 odd years, is the only one I've experienced that is horrified by this all.

NAMIBIA

NAMIBIA is a land of vast contrast and beauty. Animals are but a part of it. All land is privately owned apart from a few “parks” the government own. To see wild animals in “regular” life, you should book accommodation with a game farm. There is plenty guest, game and hunting farms all over the country. That means they are registered to cater to a certain level for tourists. Mostly not camping but ask is for free. One of the main activities (attractions) offered normally, is a game drive. The farmer knows best what game he has on his property and where to find them. These animals are in natural habitat and are wild. As such you will also be involved in regular farming. However, on game farms, which have a game fence around, meaning the animals can not leave the property, you have a greater chance to see a lot of regular and imported game. If the area is too small, one get to see the animals but in a zoo-like atmosphere. The next problem to keep in mind wherever you go is the natural vegetation, high bush. Even though the animals are present, it is not always easy to spot them due to the bush-cover they have.
In Etosha National Game Park, you will definitely have a fine and unique experience. Up North, in the Caprivi, you should camp at Bumhill campsite. It will certainly give you a wonderful “African safari” feeling with the hippo’s in the background.
Have to: Sossosvlei close to Sesriem in the Namib Naukloof Park. It is a nature reserve of mainly the sand dunes. The camp is just in front of the gate. You have to go into the park the moment the gate open (it will still be dark) in order to experience day break and sunrise in the dunes. The magic of God’s paintbrush is unreal. There are desert animals, oryx, springbuck, ostrich etc around. You have to be out of the park by sunset. If I had 3 months I would definitely spend 5 –7 days here. Going through the Namib Desert to the coast via the Spreetshoogte pass is very interesting and give different views of the country. If you pass one car in the day, you may be lucky. If you encounter five cars it is very busy. Roads are mainly gravel and more than often going slow is extremely wise.
The Namib Desert is unique. Don’t miss the moonscape just outside of Swakopmund. Try to do all the roads in the park. The road over the Boshua pass back to Windhoek is very steep. Better maybe to do it from Windhoek to the coast.
Everywhere it is relatively safe. Thieving (which is a common and group practice) is mostly confined to the big towns. Tourists are definitely a soft target; try not to look like one. Cover all valuables and put it out of sight, where ever in the country you are, like under the seat or in the boot of the car. And  ALWAYS lock your car.
Sleeping next to the road has a 50% change of turning into a disaster.
Snakes and scorpions and bees and some creatures are poisonous, therefore dangerous. Fact is, 50% is poisonous but 99,9% they will disappear when you approach. It is good to wear boots when you walk in the dark; most of the bad stuff comes from the bottom and moves with the cover of night. Do not encourage ‘familiarization’ with the wild animals (like baboons, jackals, mongooses,) even if they so cutely come to you, especially in the parks. They are dangerous and could damage your camp, steel all your food, or hurt yourselves – they are carriers of diseases.
A reliable four wheel drive is the only thing that will open the most of the country to you. Kaokoland with the Ovahimba’s in the north-west is a very big, desolate, forlorn, no-road, beautiful area. I qualify it as dangerous - travel wise - and would advise not to do it. If you want to do it, do it with a local outfitter or with some other local travelers. The pros’ do not outweigh the cons’ if I should choose for you. Similar beauty you will experience on the Namib Desert roads. You can try to include Twyfelfontein – Ais – on the way to or from Hentiesbay and Cape cross - Etosha. It is representative of Kaokoland.
Our trip driving from South Africa, one month, 4 persons, Cost in 2005: N$ 30000-00 low budget (camping and no luxuries).:
International SE Border : Rietfontein - Kalahari dessert: – aroab – Koes – Gochas
South : – Mariental – Hardap dam – Maltahohe Sossosvlei: – Sesriem
Namib border and highlands: – Solitaire – Spreetshoogte pass to Windhoek but at the Gamsberg road crossing you go to Walvisbay over the Gamsberg pass and through the Namib dessert.
Coast: Walvisbay - Swakopmund – to Windhoek via the Dessert. – Bloedkoppie etc – Boshua pass
Windhoek - Otjiwarongo – Outjo –
Etosha National Park: Okakuejo – Halali – Namutoni - Tsumeb – Grootfontein – Okavango: Rundu – Popa falls
Caprivi: – Bumhill – Lianshulu – Katima Mulilo – Border: Ngoma through Botswana back to South Africa.
Fenata is an umbrella association for tourism association in the private sector. They will give info of whom to contact:
e-m: fenata@mweb.com.na (car rentals, accommodation etc)
The website: www.holidaytravel.com.na will give extreme good info with regard to Namibia.
In the event you can stop in Luderits, see Kolmanskop (a diamond mining town taken in by the sand) and the wild horses of the Namib. From there one can go up to Aus where it occasionally snow in Aug – Sept and then on to Sesriem. It is fascinating, desolate country.
The islands off the coast are small and rocky.
Looking forward to hear from you with more questions: mysaillady@yahoo.com