Waypoint sailors

Nowadays hordes of new generation cruisers jump on the bandwagon of sailing around the world. The initial passion of discovering and experiencing the unknown had to make way for the number factor. Today the reason is "to be counted".  To be able to say you've done it. Or perhaps to say 'could afford it', since everthing cruising has become so ridiculously expensive. Therefore the today cruiser crosses the oceans with blind trust in human developements like gps, sattelite and insurance. 
The time when a certain amount of skill and interest were required to be able to navigate. Or finding a good star and horison at exactly the good time of morning or evening to take a bearing of and work out with lots of maths and tables and what have you's, where on earth (actually on the ocean) are you in order to ensure you continue in the good direction, are all things and facts which fill history books now. 
In an idyllic anchorage up in a sheltered creek in Savusavu Bay one day, motored True Blue Ozzie yacht passed us on their way out. They made a confusing zig-zag-turn between empty moorings. We thought they were busy with other things and not on attention. A short while later, the South-African catamaran Impi also passed us on their way out. She up on the bow keeping a lookout. He charging at too high speed as was his habit, between the yachts. At exactly the same place between the empty moorings, Impi made the exact same confusing and unnessary (in fact a more risky maneuver towards the coral edge, than safe) zig-zag-turn between the empty moorings. It instantly struck us clear as lightning - waypoint sailors. Not allowing themselves to trust their own observations and logics. Yet, Impi advertises his waypoints on his blog, for other insecure cruisers to follow?
From time to time we also wish for waypoints...

shake-down cruise

Out and about cruising. We went for a shakedown sail to test everything on sailboat Mylady after her long cyclone laid-up. I was testing the extremes of seasickness in no time at all and skipper turned the boat around to be kind to me. We will sail many miles this year. Comfortably we tucked in a big bay just a stones throw from smoke covered Savusavu and its stinking creek. Fortunately that anchorage is tooooo far for the international yachts to cruise to.

We enjoyed the plenty-plenty fish, birds singing and fishing canoes on the reefs who always greet 'Bula!' And on shore we were treated as specialty. 
After a few days, the wind turned favourable and we sailed out again. This time to the Namena Reef. And with good strong wind and choppy seas, we continued to Nairai the next day. Our return to Nairai was greeted with great excitement and tears. Nobody ever returns... We gifted plenty good books, some supplied by Curly in Savusavu, to the chief and Ana and we shared the Balolo Rising in the school and village. Even thouh the reefworm is something from here, it is not experienced by many. Everybody appreciated and enjoyed. 
Our sail back was a perfect trail of what the Indian Ocean will be. The conclusion of our shakedown cruise - sailboat Mylady is a worthy ocean going craft. As soon as the visa is in, we'll set sail.

BAD experience in Savusavu, Fiji

My time here in Savusavu marina, Fiji has been shockingly bad. In 6 months, 9 boat breakins (2 of my neighbours). Filthy verbal abuse by disrespectful young fishermen diving at the boats made me fear rape. No support from the hierarchy. The wife of the local expat vet who seems to be running this marina, openly accused the yachts of being the problem. Yet, we learned this marina never did the goodwill thing with the local chiefs. And yes, not they or the police did anything about the burglary cases. It is a behind the hand bad mouthing case if you are in a click or not. And since I am a strong individual and seemingly the only one who will open my mouth (or rather put pen to paper to whom it may concern) regarding my rights of respect and services , I have been the target of no good. Therefore - my time here was spend alone and productively on Mylady. There is one expat here - Curly, from NZ ( http://curlycarswell.blogspot.com  please check out his site ), who is a big exception to the rule. And in his grey old age, he keeps soldiering on. He was, and still is, my reason for not running away from this unsafe, disgraceful place called Savusavu. A FALSE paradise, with rats, spiders, and mina bird infestation where you swim in your own sweat. Had we known, we would not have been here. Had we only known.

You will do other cruisers a favour if you spread the word about this or hang a print out on your notice board.  I'm now ten years on the water, but this time spent in Savusavu Marina has destroyed the beauty that was part of cruising. Nakama Creek from top to bottom is regularly a stinking, soiled with waste - disgrace. If not oil and diesel, then from household and farming. Not to mention the black snow that creeps into, and covers, everything.

Husband is back. I am so glad. He has a Pacific Ulcer which shocked the living daylights out of us. The private docter here is good and affordable. The wound which went down to the bone, is under control. We are working full speed to get MYLADY ready for leaving the South Pacific. 
The picture:  Sad but true - terror and suicide in paradise.

SECURITY ISSUES in Savusavu and Marina

We've been here in Savusavu many times before. Liked the place so much and decided to stay the hurricane season on a mooring at Savusavu Marina. Our experience so far?

- 5 yacht burglaries - no cases resolved (one wrecked inside)
- indecent verbal assaults by disrespectful youths.
- aggressive black bird invasion
- all flour products have extra live material 
- rats
- local youths fiddling with the moorings
- discharge of pigs and human waste directly into creek
- some do-good people and others acting like  shareholders accuse yachts of being 'out of line'
- filth and empties passing regular from the shore to the sea.

I am completely disappointed, and feel very unsafe. 
Curly from Curly marina and a 'local' since 40 odd years, is the only one I've experienced that is horrified by this all.

Xmas 2014

MYLADY and crew are in SavuSavu, Fiji. Skipper is away skippering big ships. Seawife is tending to home chores. No not scrubbing the waterline, but chasing birds and rolling thumbs... (Really?). 
We wish for you a wonderful festive season. Thanks for visiting us from time to time. We do appreciate. My gift to you is the OCEAN SONG. Your gift to me is watching/listening it. Thanks. Be blessed.

NAIRAI and OVALAU in Fiji

Where on earth is NAIRAI ISLAND?  Well we didn't know until now. It happens to be in the vicinity of Koro Island, in Fiji. One can see the lights of Suva from there. Yet only one ferry in the month services the island and pretty expensive to ride. When the ferry arrives, the people of Tovulailai village jump in their longboats and take merchandise for transport to Suva and bring back shop supplies. We had a great time at Tovulailai. The dolphins guided us into the good sheltered bay. And the flying stingrays, slapped the water in a special welcome. I spread my maternal wings around Ana and in the process got skipper involved to do magic. Making one working sewing machine out of two old,

broken and useless machines.  I gave her a crash course on sewing and she's full of smiles. More machines appeared from no-where, asking some attention please.  We'll return to Tovulailai frequently in our memories.


OVALAU
We finally made it to Ovalau Island during our fourth visit to Fiji and thoroughly enjoyed the island and its people. The first capital of Fiji - Levuka - is now a world heritage site. The wind caught us

on the wrong side of the fish factory and made our first day a memorable stinking one. Apart from that the few old shops give an interesting atmosphere to the town. There is only a handful of people yet the town has a distinctive buzz. 

RABI ISLAND FIJI CIRCUMNAVIGATION

RABI ISLAND FIJI CIRCUMNAVIGATION

We visited the new Banaban Virgin Coconut Oil Factory at Nuku and found it very interesting. Spent a week in Elizabeth Cove where the king tides and coral reef made going ashore not at convenient hours. However, Ketike showed us the spring and that in itself was a safari to remember. At Fatima we attended the Roman Catholic song and dance contest which was absolutely wonderful. And then spent a night at Tabiang anchorage,which was good. The bio-fuel plant was not open when we wanted to visit it. This morning we left with moist air (drizzle) but had a great sail - full on - through the pass and back to Catherine Bay. Our circumnavigation of Ra[m]bi Island has been completed.

VISITING THE DATELINE

VISITING THE DATELINE

At Somosomo, on Taveuni, we anchored and went to town the next morning. Calm conditions. We took the taxi up the hill to the hospital where we waited in line for our turn to see the dentist. Fortunately it was a quiet day and just one lady patient infront of us. Skipper has lost a tooth filling the day before (probably due to some fresh coconut we ate which can be very hard), and we were lucky enough that Taveuni was a big island with medical facilities serving the communities of the many islands around it. The dental job went without fuss and was very afordable. Then it was time to play tourist again and we walked halfway down the steep hill, then accross a football field to get to the official 180 degrees meridian. And a few yards further, a complete tin shack church compound. It is one of those things that you know about and never think of since it's part of life. But standing physically with one foot in yesterday and with the other foot in today, came as a reality check about the amazing feats of the human race developement. Eelco has visited Greenwich in London many years ago and now also in the Southern Hemisphere. For him it was a completion of one event.

SAILING DIRECTIONS

We are in Fiji at the moment. After exploring some wonderful new bays and its people we sailed to Taveuni Island off the northeast of Vanua Levu, the northern big island. It was lovely weather - sunshine and a soft breeze. As soon as we were over the reef, the sails went up and we glided along in a seducing waltz. Our destination was just seven miles away and in view. Slowly but surely the tempo of the waltz decreased but we kept going. It was nice to be out 'sailing'. After lunch we had a look on our track and what do you know? We sailed at 1.2 knots backwards! The current in the strait was just so much more than the little wind there was. The old Volvo had to bring us where we wanted to be.

Waypoints Southern Lau Group

Ogea Driki ( Ongea Ndriki )

From outside to the inside of the lagoon.
01 19.10.747 S 178.27.520 W
02 19.10.833 S 178.27.327 W
03 19.10.914 S 178.27.185 W
04 19.10.905 S 178.27.010 W

Oneata
Pass we entered
01 18.24.941 S 178.32.068 W
02 18.25.245 S 178.31.810 W

Our anchor pos
18.25.737 S 178.28.282 W

Fulanga
Pass from out to inside the lagoon
01 19.07.254 S 178.32.347 W
02 19.07.901 S 178.32.401 W
03 19.07.392 S 178.32.465 W
04 19.07.668 S 178.32.588 W
05 19.07.727 S 178.32.587 W

Anchor pos near village visible inside the lagoon
19.07.271 S 178.35.606 W

Anchor pos near anchorage to go by foot to main village
19.08.997 S 178.33.755 W
Entrace to anchorage above
19.08.735 S 178.33.850 W

Pass to east side off the lagoon ( from W to E )
01 19.08.141 S 178.32.693 W
02 19.08.225 S 178.32.575 W
03 19.08.280 S 178.32.471 W


Totoya
18.57.262 S 179.52.989 W

Matuku
Pass from outside inside the lagoon
01 19.09.264 S 179.43.899 E
02 19.09.25 S 179.44.033 E
03 19.09.237 S 179.44.164 E
04 19.09.218 S 179.44.799 E
05 19.09.545 S 179.44.971 E
06 19.09.587 S 179.45.035 E 07 anchor pos 19.09.661 S 179.45.129 E

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FROM TONGA TO FIJI

Still in the Ha'apai in Tonga. Behind Uiha Island we road out the strong winds of the next days. From there we went to Paradise Island. No, it's not the real name. It's our name for a small island where we had the feeling of being in paradise – many years ago. It's small enough that one can walk around it. It's big enough to give protection. Apart from the south-easter, then we sailed to Tofango again. And that became our circle of sea-steading for the next months. Tofango for the SE, Uiha for the E and N, and Paradise for all the other wind directions. There are no people on Tofanga and Paradise. Uiha has two big villages and a large school.
We cleared out from Pangai in the Ha'apai and left Tonga via Kao Island. It is an impressive cone shaped high vulcanic mountain. Our good fortune for the day was an equally impressive yellow fin tuna. We arrived in FIJI five days later. If we were sailors chasing the wind, it could have been a four day trip.
Savusavu on the northern big island of Vanua Levu in Fiji, is an excellent place to catch up with internet and other commodities like shops, markets and people. Out at the point we spent a few days before drifting to Bakabaka. What a lovely place that was. We walked on somebody's dream island and took a dinghy ride to the salt lake but turned around at the white waters under the bridge.
When there was wind again we sailed to Somosomo at Taveuni. An interessting busride with beautiful views around the northern point took us to the nature park at the otherside of the island. There after we sailed to Kioa Island. Deep water with solid mangrove walls and coral. Our sail to Catharina Bay at Rambi Island was adrenaline pumping. Hard to windward, with the poorest of light, hugging the reefs and stampeding through the gap. We arrived still on our portside ear and are since in contrast, on flat calm water in a windless bay, repairing the engine and meeting the people. Beautiful outrigger canoes colour the big bay.

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