Whales

We were sailing from Jolly Harbour on the West Coast of Antigua to Barbuda. The anchor weighed at daybreak. At first the wind was gentle but 8AM - like every morning - the tradewinds came on full force. MYLADY glided along. The ride was smooth. Maybe due to the Antigua shelve more prominent to our east, the seas were not as high and rough as during our trip from Guadeloupe to Antigua.
10AM our comrades under sail in their twice our MYLADY size, raced passed us.
All in all one could classify it as a bluewater cruising day.
10:30AM "Whales!" roared skipper, "Whales!"
I grabbed the camera and made my way to the cockpit.
"WHALES!" skipper screamed.
Catching a glimpse of the backfin of the humongous 'diveboat' infront of us, I was shocked to realize the distance of almost nothing between us.
Panic-control kicked in. Skipper vigorously disengaged the windvane-clutch off the steeringwheel and abruptly swung MYLADY to starboard whilst muttering under his breath.
Hastily I turned to port with my camera. Arms-length from the boat, the water was light turquoise where one whale had just submersed. The other had its dark pancake 'footprint' as it leveled the surface, next to number one. They became unidentifiable in the lively water. In the wake of MYLADY, two boat-lengths away, first one, then the second spout raised into the air and they became one with the ocean.
With relief and amazement and annoyance that once again MYLADY was picked out for an encounter, skipper corrected MYLADY's course and windvane-self-steering.
Naturally, I could not get a proper photo. We were instantly reminded of an event in Tonga where a playing whale came blowing bubbles under MYLADY. The water was the same light shades of turquoise. It was scary. As was this.

Big Lift

When the Big-Lift ship came into the harbour of Port-a-Pitre, Eelco was a continuous commentator. On deck the Big-Lift had a shore container crane as freight. How big and strong were the deck-cranes. How the chief officer remote control the cranes. What preparations on the ship to prepare for the off-loading of the cargo. What preparations on shore to receive this immense crane. How the ship is taking in more ballast to lower its deck to shore level for a smoother transfer. And what is the differences with the submersible ships he worked on previously.

Apart from learning something of the countries and people we visit, and learning something sometimes of the sport of sailing, I also get to learn something about ships and freight and...
What an interesting life I actually have.

Guadelope

We are still in Guadelope. It rains almost every day, at least a little. But it is nice hot temperatures. We are busy with boatwork. Eelco removed the bridgedeck that blocked the entrance and made it portable. Because we still need it when we sail. But now it's easier to get in and out of the cave. It is a major happening for us. I am busy with sewing new covers for everything on the boat. The old ones have been eaten away by the sun.

We have started to use our last bottle of cooking gas. Normally we get four weeks use out of it. We must sail to Antigua soon because that's the only place in the Caribbean where international gasbottles can be re-filled, hopefully.

MARTINIQUE

Martinique, the island of flowers, says the tourist info booklet. But I see no more flowers than on any other island. However, the flowers are lovely and vibrant.
Le Marin where we made landfall is a boating place. Thousands of boats are anchored, moored or layed-up. Clearing into and out of Martinique is easy and cheap. Internet is only available with wi-fi which is mostly only available in restaurants where one is expected to buy something. Many times internet is not fast.  Australian, NewZealand and South African propane bottles can not be re-filled here. Water is available at the marina. We only took jerrycans and that was free. Lovely hot weather. We had no rain whilst the land was frequently not visable with downpour. Martinique is very hilly, lots of cars, narrow streets, parking on sidewalk.

We sailed to Forte-France, the capital, and anchored in Anse Mitan at Pointe du Bout, not knowing there is a casino and lots of entertainment long into the nights. The ferry to Forte-France runs every hour and was 7 euro return. Forte-France has an interesting mix of architecture and buildings and are overloaded with tourists. Everyday comes and goes one or more cruiseship(s). Prices match the tourists.  Lots of airplane traffic low over the bay.

Our next stop was St.Pierre. Another anchoring shocker. It is very deep and the shallower part very limited. Therefore one drop the anchor almost on the beach, still in 15m of water, and need lots of scope. But St.Pierre is a tourist attraction and boats-a-plenty come and go everyday - anchoring on top of each other.  We finally found a place far away from the others, on the other side of the bay where local fishing activity was visable. That brought us into the 'local'. And local also means 'Mount Pelee'. The vulcano that wiped the old St.Pierre and its 30,000 inhabitants from the earth. As we walk the streets, one is confronted with ruins of a sad story, yet life pulses through the new city. Our week in St.Pierre was good.

Pothole ROAD

Out here on the Atlantic Ocean we are sailing along to another continent. It takes some time. Watching the track of our sailboat MYLADY behind us, let me ponder on the road conditions. Our track is a smooth line amidst the lively waters. The birds like to check for an easier catch on this track.

At the moment the sea is rough and white, the waves strong and steep, the swell very confused and high. That gives a cacophony down here at the meeting point. The swell moves in 'mountain ranges'. MYLADY sails up against these steep cliffs, just to drop perpendicular on the backside thereof. Straight into a sinkhole. Of course the water was drawn into the mountains charging again. We fly downhill and crawl uphill. Yet in MYLADY's wake the water is smooth.

Other times when the sea is pleasant or calm, there is always movement. Going would be good with its own rhythm which one gets use to. And then suddenly in between, we hit the cross country section. Off roading. Bundu bashing. Being thrown about with three or five wackers.

But sometimes there is an amazing tarred road. Smooth as a mirror we would glide along - no left right, no port starboard, no front aft movements. Not too long though, then starts the regular rhythm again.

It is as if the Creator wanted to say, it's not all bad.

Christmas at sea

To all the wonderful people who shared our lives - those on farms or in the bush, those in the towns and cities or on ships - in many countries of the world, those who welcomed us into their homes and lives, those who've done more for us than needed, those wonderful friends, family, loved ones and accuaintances - we wish for you a lovely Christmas and New Year. May you have a restful, peaceful, joyful, shared time with your loved ones. You are in our thoughts.
BLESSINGS to you.
Our position 24 Dec 2018 04.26N 047.56W NE'ly 25 knots. 900 NM to go till Martinique. All well onboard.

Cruising along fine

The equator is 30 nautical mile away.

Atlantic Oceanic buoys

We are in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. Brazil and Africa are equally far. The last 24 hours we have passed five buoys. Approximately twenty miles apart. There size either 10x1m or 4x4m or 2x6m. One had a row of strong lights which illuminated even the clouds above. The others had none. Their AIS signal only two miles distance. How interesting that in the middle of no-where we happen to cross paths with it.
So far, all good with us. We had light southeasterlies all the way. Sometimes not enough to turn the windgenerator but we made our average of 100 NM a day. It is around 30 Celcius everyday with lovely promising clouds. We have not had proper rain yet. The clouds make for lovely sunsets. A big dorado got away today.
Greetings.

shark

We troll a fishing line behind the boat. Two days ago we caught a young dolphinfish and enjoyed it thoroughly. Today we pulled in the empty line to find that half our lure was gone. The lure is a little jelly-rubber colourful fish that has the shape of a whale. We once-upon-a-time bought it in New Zealand. Rolling the half-lure around in my hand before discarding it, I realized I'm holding a great piece of proof in my hand. Just like a dentist make a cast of one's teeth to replace or crown a tooth, similarly was the shark teeth imprints in the half-lure. Two triangles (16mm width) with pure edging were cut straight through and two double teeth and double sided were cleanly cut half-through. AMAZING !
Naturally this half-lure stays in our collection of memories as proof of the humongous shark we fortunately did not catch.

St.Helena Island

St. Helena rose from out of the fog and overcasted day slowly but surely. It kept on rising. Not to be missed. Sheer, barren, very high and steep rock cliffs facing bravely towards sea, warding off any unwelcome intruders. We chased into the harbour on the whim of a 45 knot bullet. When we were finally safely moored we enjoyed the redbill tropicbirds with their long tails parading in a dance on the drafts off the cliffs at the green waterfall below Ladder Hill.

St. Helena is harsh and barren outside and green and lush on the inside. It was foggy and raining almost every day we were there (nov'18). But temperatures were comfortable and warm. The mooring is strong and solid. A water ferry is used to get ashore since there is no beach or anything for landing a dinghy. At the landing one get off and on with the help of a jungle rope with knot which you grab and use as an extra arm. Naturally - jumping at the right time. The ferry-drivers are very good. Calm and at ease and tell one what to do. We rode out a three day swell into the harbour. It was very rough.

Formalities were easy going. To avoid you doing the up-and-down and up-and-down the hill we did, I'll give you the 1,2,3 of how to. First customs at the wharf. Then the bank to get money. There is no ATM on the island and credit cards when possible to use, more troublesome than worth it. Then buy travel-insurance which stipulate the evacuation. Then to the police station way up the hill by the big tree where one is directed to immigration. And with your travel-insurance immigration will stamp you in. Welcome to St. Helena. It is like the islands yet it's not. It's actually very English. There's about 4000 people and everybody greets everybody everywhere. Nobody walks with his nose in the cell phone. The streets are only one car wide and there is no natural level ground anywhere. Driving is considerate and give way. There are more than 5000 cars on the island. Internet is expensive and the wifi can only be used in the area where you bought it. Thus, no good out at the boat. Most everything is imported therefore has a price tag on it.

We made a day tour around the island with Robert. He is very knowledgeable. High Knoll Fort could have been my castle, rabbits and all. I loved it. Poor old Jonathan the tortoise was very old and quiet (187 years). What surprised me most was how Napoleon Bonaparte who was in exile here for the last five years of his life, was treated as royalty.

I'm glad we came to St. Helena. It was the first time in a long time that I did not felt the need to watch over my shoulder if we're safe. Where there are plenty benches along the streets for people to sit down, rest, enjoy the view and visit. Where smiles were exchanged easily. To top our visit, a big manta ray swam circles around our boat the morning of the day we left.

Luderitz

Luderitz is a natural safe harbour along the desolate and uninviting coastline of Namibia, on the southwest coast of Africa. A place where the wind blows one away. A cluster of civilization in the desert. Where the wind carriers the sand over the rail and road. The historical hub of the diamond. With a bygone era which still amazes. And where small and big diamond boats actively persue the big shine. Diamonds are after all still the highest producer of income for Namibia.

The port of Luderitz is quite active and big container ships, and tankers visit frequently. Large international cargo carriers come in on a regular basis to load mining oar to be shipped worldwide. And the fishing fleet supplying the five fish factories in Luderitz, come and go on a twentyfour-seven basis. The two tugboats are very capable of good maneuvering of the big ships in harbour. Our mooring was next to the working channel and we got the frontrow view everytime.

Luderitz and surrounds are lucky if they get any rainfall in the year. Normally it is stone-dry and the sea-mist is sufficient to keep the desert-life going.
The town is small and most everything in walking distance. Luderitz Spar (a grocery shop) should be watched for wrong pricing. We got hooked a few times. There's a daily sail to the penguine colony on Halifax Island for tourists. Dolphins, jackass penguines and seals regularly come into the harbour. Not to mention all the seabirds especially when small fish or mud shrimp were plentiful. The desert surrounding Luderitz is a combination of rock and sand and totally beautiful (if you miss the sandstorms).

We stayed there four months on a mooring of Heiko (++264 81 604 2805) and had all types of weather and wind. It was a very productive time for boat maintenance. And Mylady was covered inside outside to the top of the mast with fine sanddust. Fortunately a good shake or wash down gets it out.

Atlantic Crossing

After 11 days at sea, we arrived safely in St. Helena. During this trip we had one day of sunshine, and one night of clear starry skies. The rest of the time it was cold and wet (misty and overcasted.) Once we had a raindrop. A big breaker filled our cockpit to the brim - before coffee one morning. The mainsail was up only 10% of the time. For the remainder we were powered forward with only a stormsail. Wind was constant 25-30 knots SE. Seas were occasionally huge, otherwise considerate. Birds were less then 10 total. No fish took the bait. Fresh water consumption 2Litre per person per day.
Take care

From the Atlantic Ocean

Hello everybody,
Just to let you know all is well with us. We had two cold overcasted days but now we have sunshine again. I lost some weight and Eelco is in 7th heaven. St.Helena is only 830 nautical miles away. We have an average of 15 knots SE winds and do an average of 5 knots.
Stay well. Be good.
Misale and Eelco
Footnote for Johan at the Teleshop in Ldtz - and any other 'to be' boatowners,
We forgot to mention - we have met quit a few people who bought a boat in the area they intended to cruise and then sell again. If your desire is to cruise the Carribean, check out for instance Trinidad on the internet for boats for sale. There might be a few admin advantages also.

From Luderitz to st Helena

Ahoi !
We are on the move. Mylady left Luderitz this morning and we are heading for St. Helena. The sun is shining. It is chilli in the wind and hot in the sun. The wind should be a steady southeast for us all the way.

Voyage from South Africa to Namibia

AHOY !
Dear Friends and family around the world,
Great news! MYLADY is underway again ! 
Skipper has run out of visa time and therefore we are underway again. We left Port Owen, on the westcoast of South Africa in a veil of thick fog. The radar worked hard in the narrow dredged channel where many of the big fishingboats were moored. Wind against - fortunately just 10knots - pushing into the river high, short swell. My stomach made its first churns. Once out of the pier and onto the shallow banks, we hoisted the mainsail immediately and on a port beam we got going to Stompneus punt. Then made a tack on a long northerly run. Wind was 20-25knts NW. Tacked again to sea between the 9big ships out at anchor waiting to go and load in Saldanah Bay and repeated the long tack northerly. Night time came and the wind went to sleep. The iron sail roared into use. Fog cleared during the night. It is COLD. At the moment we are sailing wing-to-wing with a 15knot southerly in our backs.
Things to report:
*The intensity of my seasickness went from previously 100% to currently 10% !  That's magic. Maybe after all these years I'm actually turning into a proper seawife. The down side about that is that I'm not loosing the kilos that I anticipated.
*Our main source of steering - the windvane - has a problem. Therefore this whole trip to Luderitz will be done with the autopilot.
(our joblist for Luderitz before we go skipping across the Atlantic is already toooo long.)
*Saw a few white chimneys (whale spouts), albatrosses, cormarants, sleeping seals, petrels and flurescent torpedo dolphins at night and schools of dancing dolphins in the morning glow.
*Sailed right through a fleet of very impressive diamond mining boats at night.
*Saw a kind-of-petrel, which our books can not identify. Dark brown all over. dark legs. slate bill. The broad wings have one large whitish window underneath towards the outside. On top the wing has three white windows. From big to small, outside to inside.
*For the rest, far horizons, long and high seaswell, sunshine - MYLADY and crew are dancing.
What a wonderful world we're living on.
Wishing for you good health and golden memories.
ps. The wind picked up and we arrived in Luderitz on the ear - in the dark. Then portside, then starboard. We dropped anchor and waited for daylight to start our life in the next country. 

Time flies

Yes, Eelco has been down to South America with cargo and back to Houston and is currently underway over the Atlantic Ocean to West Africa. But he should be relieved on arrival. All is well with him. All is well with me who has been doing the family rounds. I have just arrived back on Mylady and from now on it is PREPARATIONS for her departure. As you can tell, the time of holidaying is past. 

I finally got around to sorting some photos into a video. Please share with us the amazing, beauty of the wild flowers of Namaqualand. On my way here, everywhere the country was covered in a carpet of green. If the rains prevail, not only might Cape Town be saved from their water crisis, but the wild flowers just might bloom prolific.

Open ocean

Eelco has left the piracy infested and ultra corrupted coastline of West Africa and is on his way to Houston in Texas. He thoroughly enjoys the peace and 'normal' life out there in the blue yonder. Isn't this copper plate artwork a masterpiece? We came across it on a street corner in one of the villages on Cocos Keeling in the Indian Ocean during our voyage. 

true or false ?

Good or bad ?
The word pollution has become a stick to hit and control the world. We all believe for the better of the world. That's why we accept it. On the ship was a crewmember who got a haircut during his off hours. Doing the good thing of not polluting the ocean, he put the hair- cuttings in an empty plastic container that was trashed. And afterwards the filled plastic container went back in the plastic trash. We all agree; the answer is, 'good'.

True or false ?
Not a single thing may go over the side of a ship these days. Everything (oils or trash) is separated and a register has to be kept to have control by any and all countries and harbours the ship visits. Seperation and control are very strict.
Marpol (marine police) came on board in Nigeria. Dug out the trash and thoroughly combed through it. Triumphantly a trophy was lifted out - the plastic container with hair. "How could you allow this, captain?"  The ship got an unreasonable hefty fine. After hours of nagging and threats from the officials, the fine was discounted with sigarettes and alcohol.
After the issue was paid and settled, captain asked the Marpol official:
In what category did the hair had to go?  Answer: overboard.
True or false ?  TRUE.

piracy West Africa

Close Call with pirates

  9Feb
  A lot of buzz and activity filled the VHF channels. In stones throw distance from our scheduled meeting point with the guard boat which would escort us through pirate alley into harbour, the gb (guard boat) advised us with great urgency to turn around immediately and run for shelter to another nearby gb because right in front of us was a pirate attack happening. Naturally we made a speedy u-turn and made a beeline to safety where we waited with apprehension.

 About an hour later our guard boat gave an all clear signal and we proceeded to harbour with them on our side without any trouble. They were efficient and gave good advise. It is a great help to have effective escourt in pirate alley.
 For us it was a close call. But for 4 crew members of the attacked vessel the nightmare of being hostage started.

freedom-chips

Once again Eelco is earning our freedom-chips along the westcoast of Africa and into the heart of pirateland - the gulf of Guinea. Hopefully time will fly.

"Persistent Danger in the Gulf of Guinea
In 2017, there were 36 reported incidents with no vessels hijacked in the Gulf of Guinea and 10 incidents of kidnapping involving 65 crewmembers in or around Nigerian waters. Globally 16 vessels reported being fired upon – including 7 in the Gulf of Guinea.
'Although the number of attacks is down this year in comparison with last year, the Gulf of Guinea and the waters around Nigeria remain a threat to seafarers. ' said Pottengal Mukundan, Director of IMB.http://www.swzonline.nl/news/8925/maritime-piracy-and-armed-robbery-reach-22-year-low

10Jan2018
  Owners lost contact with their tanker which were at anchor at Cotonou, Benin. They informed the authorities. Both the Nigerian and Benin navy searched. 16jan the owners reported the ship arrived intact in Lagos. The crew successfully negotiated with the hijackers.

Netherland

We have spent the Christmas and New Years in Netherland. According the weather bureau it was the warmest end of year in a century. The SAFARI PARK BEEKSE BERGEN was the highlight of our visit. We will definitely re-do this safari and spend more time. Eelco is currently on m/v UAL Texas earning our freedom-chips along the west coast of Africa. Misale is doing the family rounds. 

Travelling South Africa 2017

I don't know where to start. It's been a long time since my last writing. First things first ; Please know that you're in our thoughts more often than not. Memories are the gifts around our tree. Thanks for your sharing our lives and we wish blessings upon you. We are healthy and well. Hope the same for you.
This is a long story. Copy and paste it onto your desktop and read it when you have time.
    We've been doing lots of boatwork. The main project was to replace the old batteries and in the process enlarge the batterybank of Mylady to five batteries. The money was major but the real problem was where to put the extra two batteries in our overful boat? I'm happy to report - the project ended well. In the process of making space, Eelco also entered the seemingly timeless defense of the impenetrable lost space below the cockpit bunk and created extra cuboards and enlarged others. And that for us, is the cherry on the cake. Because space = LUXUARY ! Wow...  I shouldn't say it was lost space because it could have served as floating ability. We left Mylady with great satisfaction to start our travels in South Africa.     

Attending the Hantam Meat Feast in Calvinia was a great experience.  For two days the sheep farming community were celebrating the sheep. And in their thousands the people supported the feast. Mutton and lamb were served in any imaginable way - the crowd enjoyed. Queues stood inline for a taste of the 'kliprib' (rock-rib) - also we. The rib grilled between two hot rocks, was better in anticipation than taste. I actually prefer the traditional barbeque way. There were entertainers galore. We loved the Rieldancers best. They were from the Middelpos secondary school in the middle of nowhere with only a handful of pupils. Accompanied by only one guitar and a homemade song of real life in the dry rocky bundus, the kids performed the rieldance with vigor and joy - kicking up dust in puffs till the earthy curtain covered them all.  
   

Our next experience was Sutherland, -2 degree Celcius. The road to there shook our car apart. Over the first hill to the big telescope, the car would go no further.  The oilfilter holder cracked open. Due to our driving slow and careful, we thankfully had no engine damage. A local young man fixed our car problems and with only one day delay we continued. Stargazing in the karoo is phenomenal. And the big telescope at the observatory absolutely amazing being able to see a five rand coin (or a dollar quater) in detail at a five kilometer distance. The campsites at Jurg's was perfect with wind-breaker-trees and bush, electricity and good facilities. The road from there took us through the harsh beauty of the fascinating Koue Bokkeveld ranges. It's a sad, dry and rocky,

striking beauty.
    We followed the Hex River snowcapped Mountains leading to Cape Town until we turned away direction Montague. The developed valley flushed with colour as the raw turned soil alternate with the orchads of fruittrees that started to bloom. We loved Montague with it's bird sanctuary in the midst of town. The Montague Caravan Park where we camped was a delight.  It has hotwater springs and pools and waterpark and dam with plenty fishing and birds galore. It is very clean, friendly and safe with town in walking distance. The rock formations and colour around Montague is amazing. 
    A year ago we went to the Philidelphia Church bazaar. We enjoyed it so much we attended this year again. It's every year the first Friday of September. The rows of big black pots standing on three legs over a bed of coals (just like you've seen the drawings of the people vanishing in a man-eater's pot with fire around it's bottom), between all the smoke of fires on the side, is a picture to

smile at and remember forever. The cooks with cold drink in arms reach, all compete for the first sell-out (empty pot). Interesting though is that Philidelphia (a hour north of Cape Town), consists of one church and approximately ten houses. Yet drew thousands of people for this once a year event and justified the rows of potjiekos and a church full of delicious traditional goodies. They also make the biggest campfire in Africa. And around this huge circle all the guests passed and warm up.
   

Our next stop was Paternoster. Thirteen years ago we spent our honeymoon here at the Tietiesbay campsite. The wind blew us almost away. In the morning we woke from the bellowing foghorn, warning everyone of the dangerous rocks around. The lichen covered boulders are strewn along the coastline and into the sea. And in the distance one can always see the colourful fishing dories

of the locals. This time round, we've pitched tent behind a two storey rock. Indulced in the exotic feel of a private small beach covered with whitened, weathered shells and the breaking waves a few meters away. After a lazy lunch we went for a snooze. And woke from the tearing of our tent. No, it wasn't the wind but a burglar. We jumped up and chased after him. With his hands overful he dropped the passport and binoculars underway, but got away with our laptop, camera, wallet and cards, driverslicence, etc. We packed up and went to the police to report it. Two hours in the police station we finally could make a report.The officer in comand did not know where this campground was. We learned fast that we were in the lion's den. In season twelve cases per day are registered, and campers are cleaned out. Murder is a common threat. Nothing further has happened to our case. Welcome to South-Africa.
    We took the car again sometime later and drove over Citrusdal across the mountains to Ceres. We thought being October, the winter is passed and left our 2nd down duvet at home. Well, we froze our buds off. We layered all our clothing across the bed to generate and keep more warmth. The cold snap cleared after a couple of days. We were in beautiful, blossoming cherry country.

From there we drove the old road over Wellington to Paarl. What a beautiful area. In Paarl we went to see and listen to Stef Bos and enjoyed him thoroughly. He's a musician that write and sing ballads from personal experiences. The next morning we drove to Franschoek. A pictureque, historic and now tourist town. We left the huzzle and buzzle behind and enjoyed the beautiful panorama views of the patchwork valley and the steep mountains on either side as we crawled up over the Franschoek pass. Over the hill it was a different view. The mountains more rounded with loose boulders. I spotted a klipspringer standing motionless on a rock. It was lovely to see.

 

      Down the hills we drove to the TheeWater dam at Villiersdorp. It was sad to see how empty it was. (It is the 3rd dam supplying Cape Town with water.) Strong winds chased up white walls of dust from the dried-up mud and deposited fine sand all over everything. From there we drove over Bonnievale to Montague again. This time over the mountain pass from Ashton side and through the amazing hole in the rock-wall.

    In Swellendam we visited the National Museum. It was very interesting and history became more real. Heidelberg is not far from Swellendam and there we spent a few relaxing days with family. My aunt sent us underway with loads of citrus and veggies from own garden.  Calitzdorp was our next camp at the old railwaystation behind the high cliffs. The three storey high sandstone rock wall was home to an active beehive just above our tent and the nesting site of a pair of spotted eagle owls. They were lovely to see at dusk and to listen to during the night. The countryside was beautiful with interesting red stone natural carved hillsides where the sunlight played colourful mosiac.

We continued to the Cango Caves above Oudtshoorn. It definately is a very impressive piece of creation. Also interesting was how over the years it has become very developed. That night we were welcomed at the lovely Malva cottage in De Rust. It is a place with history where one feel at home. Beautiful humming birds visited on the varandah whilst the garden was a bird-der's delight. And then it was off to the Camdeboo National Park in the vacinity of Graaff Reinet. It's a small park. We liked it. But the mollest making monkeys dancing on our tent trying to get in, were not nice. At Camdeboo we walked to the Valley of Dessolation. The impressive rock formations and erosion were surreally topped with a Black Eagle keeping watch. It majestically took to the air as we approached. 

We zipped down to the Addo Elephant National Park in the vacinity of Port Elizabeth, with tortoise pace. Had to pitch tent in gale forced winds and the dust of the town Addo ends up gritting between the teeth. In Addo Elephant park one see elephants - plenty. Addo Nat.Park is very commercialized and the game not spooky. It is also a confrontation with the solid and high thicket of the african bush where one's vision is limited to the clearing of the road. And it happens often that you see elephants at one or two meter distance because of the bush. After a week we left

for the dryer and open country north to Cradock where we camped in the Mountain Zebra National Park. From all we've experienced yet, that must be the best. It's a medium sized park with a good diversity of game. But the scenery is hard to beat anywhere. The changing landscapes in the different light settings of day and weather is absolutely stunningly beautiful. Every day the same place is different. It's a place we wish to return to. Our week there was not enough. I saw for the first time Grey Rhebuck.
    In Hogsback with its terrible roads we enjoyed the eco-shrine of the the inspired artist Diana Graham. And the chocolate shop had

goooood homemade chocolate. We took the gravelroad north. The area was beautiful. The road sometimes only wide enough for one car. We saw our first crowned cranes. They are so very colourful and pretty. In chaotic busy Queenstown we lost our course for a short while. Got directions from a local street-user and made a u-turn. The road to Dordrecht meander through beautiful landscapes. In Maclear we overnighted and had a super lovely and affordable breakfast at the mug&bean restaurant. Further north we went until we reached Mount Currie campsite near Kokstad. It was great and relaxing. It's a big dam surrounded by grassy hills with game roaming. When we arrived I thought some hilltops had red sandy tops. In the warm light of the morning we discovered the red tops were beautiful red lilies.
   

The road from Kokstad to Underberg passed miles and miles of swamps. It was beautiful and interesting. There is also a new camp but our VW Jetta was not fit for a sticky, muddy 4x4 track, so we had to look only from the roadside. We camped at Garden Castle on the foot of the southern Drakensberg mountains. FANTASTIC! It must be the gateway to heaven. We were the only camping, but everyday the hikers passed us by the dozens and envied our surreal spot. There were no power yet hot water and a freezer were part of the clean fascilities. Rugged majestic mountains to one side, sometimes dissappearing in the soft mist blanket, to the fifty shades of green on the mellowing foothills and valleys on the other side, covered with the loveliest dainties flowers. I presumed some of it was the famous 'edelweiss' of  the 'Sound of Music' ?? movie.
    Too much rain chased us out of the Drakensberg Mountains. We reversed our track and went westward round Lesotho from the the south. The mountain passes from Elliott to Zastron were absolutely lovely. Rain obscured our view but we could imagine the scope of the panorama we saw. Zastron is a non-tourist town. Nothing is happening there, but it serves a 'genuine' people. The very best sosatie sausage we bought at the Zastron Butcher. And that butcher and friendly staff were serving it seems like a whole city, so busy

they were. From Zastron it was on towards Gariep Dam. A thunder-dust-and-rain storm gave us an equal to see-storm experience. Windgusts would flatten our tent. But our tent being flexable, would just bend as low as being pushed and jump right back up only to be flattened again to right itself again. I stood inside watch to keep everything covered from the wet and had the roof on my head several times while Eelco paraded the outside to check the lines and anchors (tent pens). We survived it well. (The adjacent chalet's roof blew off.)
    We headed back east towards Lesotho and the Drakensberg Mountains. It was a main aim of our trip - to see the Drakensberg Mountains. From Gariep we headed to LadyBrand 15km away

from Maseru, the Lesotho Capital. We rented a log cabin at EinGedi Retreat and had a super good time even though it was freezing cold. Yes, we woke to snow capped mountains. We had good hikes and spotted lots of game. Some would come very close to the cabin. After three days we followed the snowcapped Maloti Mountains to Golden Gate - the northern 'gate' to the Drakensberg Mountains on the eastern border of Lesotho. Golden Gate has beautiful and very colourful, huge sandstone formations. And camp was right underneath one such hillside. Especially at sunset it was a sight to behold. Baboons were a disaster. In Golden Gate Nat Park I saw for the first time Oribi antelope.
   

On our way to the Drakensberge, we stopped at the Sterkfontein Dam. It has beautiful turquois water similar to that of the mountain lakes in New Zealand. Sterkfontein Dam has the largest dirt wall in southern Africa. Close to the lookout over the dam is the vulture restaurant. And there happened to be fresh carcasses on the hillside. Our last count were about 50 whiteback vultures when we left, but they were still gliding in from heavens know where to join the feast.
   We camped two nights at Monks Cowl in the middle of the Drakensberg Mountains on the east side. And three more nights at the adjacent Dragons Peak Resort. The facilities at Dragons Peak is up to standard and the tree canopy so thick, we almost didn't got a drop of the continuous rains. Whilst sitting out the rains we went to a concert of the Drakensberg Boys Choir. It was a great show. From Dragons Peak we took the back road hugging the Drakensberg ranges which were still snow-capped. It was tarred. Yet it was a pothole disaster to the point that one needs a 4x4 to get through some of the bad spots. We stopped at Giant's Castle Nat Park. The giant and his castle were playing hide and seek in the mist blanket. In fact ; they were not there. From a great distance and at the next town, the castle was visible. Majestic.
   

Rain and icy temperatures, followed us southward to Glengarry in the vacinity of Kamberg and Heimoor, fortunately the wind was not too strong when it was on duty. A duiker ewe visited our campsite shyly. Very special. We said goodbye to the Drakensberge and camped at the Meiringskloof Nature Reserve at Fouriersburg in the south-east of the FreeState. Birdlife was vacinating. We continued to Secunda where Sasol makes fuel from coal and had a great visit with family there. From there it was on towards Emerentia and had special time with old friends (met on our travels in New Zealand). And we had a super family breakfast in Midrand, Pretoria before we turned around and made a beeline for home on the West Coast. We slept in Vosburg, about midway of our trip, a place of ten houses. It was like walking back into the 60's. We loved it.

  

Dear MYLADY is as good as always. And she can rock soooooo nicely. We are running around to get visas organized and pack for travelling to the northern hemisphere.
Thanks for reading. Keep strong. Drop us an email:  mysaillady@yahoo.com 
Surround your special people with love - surround yourself with the love of special people

Travels

We are travelling again in beautiful South Africa. When one experience the beauty, the bad and sad stuff seem so far away. 
Picture overview of Franshoek valley in the Cape Province.

Back HOME

Hello to everybody. I presume it's time to let you know we are still alive, well and at home. And that is great as always. The mechanical department on board is in overdrive with the maintenance and new projects on Mylady. And the supporting crew is on red alert standby. The steamlight on the mast was UV-ed to dust over thirty years. Eelco replaced it for less than a fraction of a new. Of course we are chuffed and happy about it. It is winter in southern Africa. And along the coast - cold, misty and wet. Talk to you later !

Atlantic Ocean - mv UAL Texas

PIRACY AND CORRUPTION

Maffia - corruption - piracy - all bad words and unfortunately all applicable to Nigeria. If they're willing to pay the price, cargo vessels can be escorted fore and aft by gunboats. Piracy is an age-old trade and gunning them down, part of daily life it seems. Normal protection is just one highspeed vessel to accompany the convoy of cargo vessels in and out of the seaport Onne, which is just south of  Port Harcourt in Nigeria. There is a certain area in the delta where no police or navy control is done. Therefore the area is used for pirate-trade.  Eelco's ship left Nigerian waters again under surveilance. It is though on the high seas out of the high risk area (and protection), that the pirates are active.  Pirates are one thing, but it's the corruption applied in maffia manner by the officials on all levels which leaves the bitter taste. 

UAL TEXAS underway to Ghana

Skipper is on his way with the mv UAL TEXAS to Takoradi in Ghana, West Africa. The trip started in Houston Texas and they battled heavy seas and large swell crossing the Atlantic. Now in the lee of the African continent, they can pick-up speed again. I can follow him on marinetraffic.com

Freedom chips

Yes it's that time again. m/v UALTexas is providing the opportunity to collect the much needed freedom chips. Eelco joined ship in Brazilia and is now underway to Mexico and the USA, and from there to west Africa. Crew is multi national. 

   gold and silver not, but aluminium

2016 update

2016 has been an interesting year. No, we didn't sail even one mile...... sad but true. Mylady arrived December 2015 in South Africa. We rested in Knysna over Christmas and then sped around the Cape of Good Hope to Port Owen on the southwest coast of South Africa. Here in the marina which is quite a distance upriver on the great Berg River, Mylady is safe from any heavy seas or swell. Yet close enough to sea, to freeze (not truly - just very cold) when the wind turns and comes onshore across the cold Benguala of the Atlantic.

Therefore we're not complaining. We have cold, cool, warm, hot, mist weather, all in the span of one week, and then over again.  Sea is half hour walk from the boat. We go there often.

            We have been hard at work - travelling. Eelco earned some freedom chips for us around western Europe. Mi-sA-le joined him for a few weeks. We alse spent time with mom in Netherland and explored some of Holland. Mi-sA-le then went to visit her son in Texas USA and also her son in Cape Town. The time back on Mylady we enjoyed and happily groomed the boat, ticking-off the jobs to-do list which only grows.

             We went on a flower safari for a month in Namaqua land. It was beautiful, stormy, wet, cold, interesting. We made a roadtrip through the southwest part of Namibia. It took us two months. The land and desert were as always, soul-charge beautiful and amazing. When out on the water I colour in my mind the blue around me with browns, beige and greens - then I have the Namib right there at sea. While travelling through the Namib, I coloured in my head the black and browns of the landscape with hues of blue - and it is truelly just asif we're at sea. Mind boggling. Even Eelco agreed. The roadtrip was hot and dusty. Birdlife quantity and variety was astounding. Game sighting along the roads were plentiful. But I dare say not 10% of the dust kicking cars flying by saw the well camo-ed animals.

             At the moment we are spending time in Jonkershoek Nature reserve area between the massive peaks and cliffs of the ... mountains. (Have you watched my JONKERSHOEK movie yet?) Then its off to Cape Town for some visa paperwork. Then on toward Pretoria for Christmas with the family and in the New Year we start with freedom chips and overseas trips again. As you can tell - we are well. 

              Wishing you all the best and hope to hear from you soon. 

   Eelco  and Mi-sá-lê -  blessed & happy  

Road trip Namibia

After the haulout, we scurried with half of everthing inside Mylady, to the old VWJetta and started our selfdrive road trip to Namibia, camping along the way. We had detailed, good info from the stgcnam consultant in the planning stage and  underway.
          Ai-Ais hotspring to which I was so looking forward to, was a very big disappointment. A troop of baboons reigned and spread disaster. Some of the facilities were noticeably improved outside but the inside was unkept, dirty and worn. Even in the spa the tiles were broken off, the water temperature either boiling or cold, and the massage jets not working.
The viewpoint of the Fishriver Canyon at Hobas was fantastic. As was the camping facilities. Very dusty powder soil though.
Gravel ROADS in Namibia is a disaster for any sedan car. All the roads servicing the tourist destinations are over-used and the roadbed destroyed by corrigation, making grating it not very helpful.
Luderits was very enjoyable. We had perfect weather. Stayed at the oldest building -signal tower. And enjoyed a marvellous trip out to the islands with Zeepaard Boat tours. 
Aubures - west of Helmeringshausen was very good. We were guided to ancient Bushmen rock paintings - fascinating! The view accross the valley refreshed the soul everytime you laid eyes on it. Hot - dry - rocky - yet grippingly beautiful.
We enjoyed the immense beauty along the C27 road passed Wolwedans. On the spur of the moment we bypassed Sesriem with its maze of accommodation and stopped at Weltevrede. 
From there we made speed to Windhoek, bundu bashing over the D1261, Remshoogte pass.
         Windhoek Mediclinic operates like Africa - spent two nights there.
Urban camp.net was a super great experience. Very central to downtown Windhoek and five minutes walk to Joe's Beer House. The staff at Urban were very helpful, friendly and accommodating.
Next stop was Spitzkoppe. An impressive place with its overpowering boulders and curios rock rabbits. 
We had lunch in Hentiesbay and stayed in Swakopmund. The dunes gave us an excellent and exhausting experience.  It was freezing cold, windy and wet ! And we chose to return to the blazing hot Spitzkoppe. 
In Gross Barmen we relaxed. The hot inside pool was not clean, the floortiles in all the pools were dangerously slippery. To top it all - around twelve noon all electricity went off! In pitch dark we had to find our way with hands and the occasional faintest of cellphone light back to our clothes. And no discount was offered for this inconvenience. Daan Viljoen Game Reserve just outside Windhoek on the other hand was a super experience.
From there it was south again. We slept between the quiver trees 20km north of Keetmanshoop at /Garas. And continued to Amanzi at the Orange River. Amanzi was good, but for us very unpleasant when students noised loudly through the night, making sleep a disaster. We cancelled the rest of our booking and left.
The last stop of this trip was Modderfontein 8km west of Springbok in South Africa where we also started this trip. First time round our air mattrass failed. Second time round we brought back the borrowed matras.
Back home on sailboat Mylady here in Port Owen, it is suprisingly
windy and cold. With time I will update this post with a lot of links.  

HAULOUT Port Owen - South Africa

A shocking, anti-climax to 'normally'.

Sailing vessel Mylady has been quietly at rest in Port Owen Marina for the last few months. But now it was time to haulout at Port Owen Boatyard. On our way to the boatyard we ploughed half a keel deep through the mud, but eventually we got there.
          Mylady looked very good since her last haulout two and a half years ago. 
    Here at the boatyard the atmosphere is relaxed and the services effecient. 
     As always, there are more to do than 'just a scrub and paint'. Whilst we continue life on the hard and climbing high ladders, we'll keep on dreaming.

Why the "shocking, anti-climax to 'normally'"?
Because it is so relaxed.
How come?
Because the boatyard closed for a couple weeks holiday and we are all alone fiddling with dear old Mylady while we watch the thousands and thousands of cormorants flying to the fishing grounds every morning and returning every evening above the meandering river.

m/v Gitana - freedom chips

To fill up our freedom chips kitty, Eelco took a short relieve job on m.v Gitana in the Mediterranean Sea.   When he departed he       received a wonderful greeting card from the crew.  
We do value this tremendously. 

South Africa - KLEIN KAROO

We rented a car and travelled the Klein Karoo in South Africa. It was more than beautiful and truely a place where there is space for the mind. Please come along on our ride through the KLEIN KAROO.

m/v Panda

We were just properly settled at our new address on the west coast of South Africa when the question came from Total Crew (Dutch agency) - 'Are you available? Urgent relieve was needed on mv Panda.' Since we needed some freedom-chips, Eelco made the jump in one week's time from the Southern hemisphere to mv Panda in the northern hemisphere and relieved owner-skipper Henk Held. Onboard the Panda is good working conditions. The crew are returning crew. Therefore familiar with the boat and modes operandie - and with one another. Mv Panda ship handles like a dream. Her full electronic bridge, willing bow thruster, and effecient equipment, not to forget the touch screen stove, internet and other conveniences, make for many smiles. In a time when shipping is having it tough and many out of work, during Eelco's time onboard as skipper, the  charterer - Amadeus (German company) - kept mv Panda full time loaded and underway. Hats off to Brigitte at Amadeus. Mv Panda is 88.95m long and 12.5m wide. She runs on diesel. Dries out in the mud if shallow river ports require and doesn't want to stop when she's loaded. The engineer juggles the pumps and balast while chief mate exercise precision loading, everybody is tired but smiles when mv Panda pulls out of harbour and sails with a song.

SAILING THE AFRICAN COAST

Summarizing SAILING THE AFRICAN COAST with sv MYLADY.
Mozambique - we knew of sailboats doing the same crossing however, did not see any. Couple of fishing boats. Couple of big ships. Short cycled heavy cold fronts continuously. Real bad anchoring experience in changing for worse conditions with no good alternatives. Skipper got his finger chopped in the gypsy.
Richards Bay area - a couple of big ships going Indonesia direction.
Durban - Killer gale.
Between Durban and East Londen lots of big ship traffic both ways.
Agulhas current - formidable - running east to west. Close to coast was counter current and Bird Island took forever to get passed in the light winds. few whales. lots of comfort containers motoring past in lovely sailing weather. Plenty Cape Gannets around.
PE permission from harbour master to enter. Big entrance. Unfamiliar with clearing customs for pleasure craft. Visiting cruise ships. Bulk carriers loading magnesium oar (black dust covers everything). According local info the industrial harbour activities will be moved to the east side of Algoa Bay a good distance away, projected time 10 years. Plenty fishing boat activity close to PE. 'flight plan' an issue on leaving. Flight plan non-existing in Knysna or Port Owen.
Knysna - thick fog. tricky entrance. Keep to the leading line (very close to the westerly head.) Strong current in channel. Good holding in sandy-mud. VERY healthy water. Growth on the anchor chain, almost impossible to remove, after only two weeks on anchor. Play garden of all speed boats that do not keep to their designated area. Many regularly zig-zag full power between the yachts on anchor. Out going tide makes big breakers on both inner and outer bank at the heads.
Cape Agulhas - 5 knts E. big ship traffic (5 ships in 24 hrs) 2 heading for Mosselbay. Visibility on water clear. Coastline hazy. Good internet reception 12 miles off coast (vodacom). Fascinating beautiful sea-glow at night caused by plenty fish activity in fhosphorus water.
False Bay - fog clouds and veldfire smoke covered the mountains and shoreline. We passed in light winds.
Cape Point / Cape of good hope - 25 knots southerly. Hefty seas (for us from behind). Good going. Many shore lights and beacons. Had a near hit/mis with unlit sailboat.
Cape Town - Many big ship traffic
Atlantic ocean - plenty whales, solitary and moving, also group activity. Cold Benguela current. Thick and heavy, blinding fog. Shocking cold. Lots of seals.
St. Helena Bay - Stompneus Bay lovely to rest. Anchor stuck behind rocks. Millions of black cormarants parading the horizon just above the waves.
Port Owen - Plenty real big fishing boats alongside Laaiplek in the river. We were piloted up-river by marina manager. Quiet secure waters in Port Owen Marina. Tidal river flood banks teaming with birdlife. Relaxed atmosphere. Lively Port Owen Yacht Club organizing sailing races and activities and weekly suppers and social. A great place to rest for a while.

SOUTH AFRICA Knysna

We approached Knysna on the Garden Route at the south coast of South Africa in thick fog, the first week in December. It lifted and densified alternately. We were waiting for the tide to rise and therefore at peace standing off and lining up with the leading lights from a way-out distance. A local adventure ridged inflatable came to us on their way back to Knysna with, "Welcome to Knysna. It's your first time here? The heads are calm today, you don't have to wait for the high tide." He greeted goodbye and disappeared between the waves and swell at the heads. I swallowed. We concentrated hard. The front white light of the leading lights were difficult to keep and eye on between all the other buildings. The rocks of the western head were too close for comfort and the waves and swell teamed up to pull and push us out of the line of safe entry. And the known troublesome rock in the middle of the entrance was submerged and unmarked, with different identifications from different sources. By all qualifications not an easy-on-my-heart entry. As always the relieve comes sudden when one realizes the major obstacles are passed.

Not being able to see good colour of the shallow water, we pottered in one bend when a local dinghy came to us pointing where the deeper water channel runs and we finally spotted a buoy for direction. After half an hour motoring and almost running aground on the sandbank close to the yacht club, a local boatowner led the way in his dinghy to a safe anchoring spot. We put the anchor down and didn't move it again. The current is strong in the main channel and Mylady, one of only three deep keel monohulls in catamaran valley, swung all over the place. During springtide low it was a bit shocking to see how big and close the sand islands then exposed, were.
The yacht club people were friendly and helpful. Anchoring is free. Temporary membership at the yacht club was R110- a week for a couple. The showers tall enough for Eelco and lovely hot. After New Zealand where one has to pay extra to use the showers this is nice to may use enough water for an enjoyable shower.
Knysna town is beautiful as seen from the water. There are three big shopping malls and all other shops and services one may require, available. Restaurants galore. The Timber Village has beautiful wood carved statues on display at the waterfront. And even more fascinating things and furniture at their village. We met Bryan who makes kites at Knysna Kites and we enjoyed exotic and exquisite tastes from That Platter Guy at the Friday afternoon market of the Montosouri school where local Knysna comes out for a good eat and social. We still savoured some of his salmon pate, gorgonzola, and ginger with peppadew cream cheese as we sailed passed Cape Agulhas. It was time for us to leave Knysna Lagoon with all the speedboats chasing around so inconsiderate of the anchored yachts.

South Africa - MEIRINGSPOORT

Come on a ride with us through the impressive MEIRINGSPOORT in the Klein Karoo in the Cape.

South Africa - BUTTERFLY WORLD

Just outside Paarl, in the Cape, is the Butterfly World. Which is also a sanctuary to many other creatures. Share with me the beauty and joy I experienced. Thanks.

South Africa - JONKERSHOEK

Share with us the wonderful JONKERSHOEK nature reserve. 

Thanks for visiting

We appreciate everyone visiting us so regularly. Your contact is valued. Keep well.

PORT ELIZABETH

Port Elizabeth, about halfway between Cape Town and Durban on the south coast of Africa: a friendly people.

They were right there on the jetty to take our lines and welcomed us. Our every wish was no problem. Facilities at the marina and yacht club were clean and good. The yacht club restaurant was packed every day. It was clear that foreigh yachts don't make landfall in Port Elizabeth. Customs were initially confused but we did get our stamps eventually. PE is big and the yacht club far from town. King Cab Taxis were the best. Good rates, good cars, good

service. Waiting times were correct and their drivers knowledgable and helpful. With such a King Cab Taxi we made a tour through the old and new Port Elizabeth and learned a lot. We spent lots of time and money running around to refill the cooking gas. 

And then the wind turned Southeast. Twentyfours hours later we discovered with shock and dismay a fine oily black dust covering the whole boat inside out. Where one touched or walked you left a track. The walls, ropes, inside drawers, under the spreaders and solars, up one's nostrils - absolutely everything was dusted black. Big bulk carriers were loading magnesium oar in the southeast corner of the harbour. Needless to say, we left PE that evening. 

This report was written a month later (and published even yet a month later) and even though we have been springcleaning the boat ever since and in a thorough way never done or needed before, we are still discovering black magnesium dust every day.